7.14.2016

Journal, May 22, 1976 PM

What a homebody I have been today. I went shopping this morning, and must have spent 17-18 Colones, but I have enough stuff to last me all week, I think. I made some salad dressing this noon, another lifetime first, and had some for supper (not bad!). I feel like I’m really becoming a cook because I looked at a recipe in a book, left a couple things out & added a couple more. I fried up the yuca in vegetable oil for lunch. <It came out surprisingly good, but not quite as good as what I’ve had at Sofia’s & Pilar’s.> But for a first try, stupendous!

I played homebody, as I say, all afternoon. I wrote 3 letters (Mary, Jan, home), read some Claudia Lars, the “Prensa Grafica” {local daily newspaper} and “Scientific American”. I continued reading after supper (meat loaf balls & a super salad, with my dressing), and have been left in a pensive mood, considering the ultimate insignificance of my life, and the futility of striving. Look at the great minds - Galileo, Da Vinci, Copernicus, Kepler, Newton, John Maxwell, Einstein (How many others?). They saw beyond the accepted model of the universe in their times, and yet the average highschool youngster today can get a better understanding of the physical universe (at least on an intuitive level) than any of them achieved before they died. And when you’re dead that’s it for this particular set of gray matter with its complex cross circuits and unique waves! Se acabó! {It’s over!}

All one puny human can hope for is to increment the body of knowledge (be it a millimeter or a country mile), and hope that that corporate entity somehow survives. Survives what? And for how long? Hope against hope.

But is it necessary to make science, surrogate religion? Science is fascinating to do & read about. I find myself excited about this socioeconomic study of the upper Lempa valley, the problems foreseen, possible techniques to overcome them, etc., etc. I get immense pleasure from reading about the latest theory of the composition of Jupiter’s 4 biggest moons, or the mechanics of the Jovian atmosphere, or the ingenious new instruments and techniques which made possible the observations which have led to the theories. Discovery, from learning to walk, to trying to conquer death, and all those “eureka” moments in between, has to be the basic driving force behind scientific man.

A person should hedge though, I’ve come to believe. I was a true believer in social science until I got deep enough into it to see what I now feel are its inherent limitations. The constantly evolving social context, for example, in which technology is so integral a part. I may find physics at its depths no less limited. The way to hedge is to put some thought and effort into your day-to-day life. Try to “marry well”, raise children “right” and do the little things around your home “que le da la gana” {that you feel like doing}. What to hell, chances are infinity to one you’ll never understand the universe, even if you arrive at the point where you think you do!

I made a mental note while on the bus today, coming back from the market, to enter in this journal a special phenomenon. That is the existence of indigent (usually blind) guitarists who enter a San Salvador city bus at one point in a route, play a song or two for the passengers, pass to the back of the bus collecting coins in a hat or container, get off the bus & wait for the next one to repeat the process. They are often grotesque looking individuals (dirty, missing teeth, stunted, stuped), but invariably deft guitar players. Those I’ve heard have not had fine voices, but have made up in emotionality what they lacked in smoothness & clarity. It’s a job for them. They are not beggars and they have a certain air of professional pride about them. I happened to be on the bus with such artists on both my trip into San Salvador {from Santa Tecla} & my return trip.

Letter(2), May 22, 1976

Hi Jan,

Que tal el Español {How is your Spanish}? Bien {Good}? Progresando {Progressing}? How are things at the day care? It seems like a while since I’ve heard from you, & I wanted to send you a couple clippings from the intra-Peace Corps newspaper, so I’m writing. Could you get me a copy of the solar energy thing? I have no use for it down here but would like to have it when I get back. Maybe you could show it to Tom & get him making a solar oven or something! I thought the other clipping might interest you since you’re into oriental cooking. Only thing is, the book’s expensive, but maybe it’ll be out in paperback soon!

I have left Metalío. I start work Monday with Recursos Naturales Renovables {Natural Renewable Resources}. Things have really come unglued at CREDHO and I decided I just didn’t want to hang around El Maizal anymore - seeing so much wrong & not being able to do much about it. The bosses at the church fired CREDHO’s two agriculture extension agents and Mr. Castillo, the most popular of the co-op promoters in a shakeup. They couldn’t have chosen a worse time to do it since it is now planting season & nothing is getting done at El Maizal. The priest got uptight about some heated remarks of a group of peasant farmers - impatient for their seed & fertilizer - and wasn’t going to give the promised seed and fertilizer to any of the co-op members in the area around El Maizal. If he had done that, CREDHO might as well have abandoned El Maizal and gone somewhere else! Most of the farmers are getting their stuff, but I wonder when El Maizal will plant! And now they have money from Heifer Project to buy cows & the administrators in San Salvador want to spend that as soon as possible. I wrote the 3 top people in CREDHO a letter recommending that they forget the cattle project, at least for this year, and concentrate on organizing what they have. I also told them I was quitting.

So now Jay will carry on alone in Metalío. He thinks the mess at El Maizal will open opportunities for his “projects”. Currently he is interested in building a windmill capable of generating electricity. Jay doesn’t feel the personal responsibility for the way things go there, so it doesn’t bother him that they’re so fucked up. Me, I just get upset thinking about all the wasted potential there!

Did I tell ya? Jay got your letter & said it was real good. That’s quite a compliment because Jay takes his letter writing very seriously!

I’m living with Ed Shiffer in Santa Tecla now. (Remember the guy who came with an older man & took us to La Libertad? We spent the night at his place.) It’s quite a change in lifestyle, having a kitchen, shower with hot water, cleaning lady who comes twice a week, etc. I really have to economize now to have money to go to Costa Rica in July, & money to take up to Guatemala & buy some stuff before I leave. Rent & all are expensive in the city! I’m going to try to eat at home as much as possible, so I’m learning to cook. I can make rice, fry platanos {plantains}, cook yuca, etc. And Ed has promised to show me how to bake bread. I bought a thermos in which I can make excellent yogurt also! I need a pressure cooker for beans! Guess I’ll survive.

Love,

Dean

Letter, May 22, 1976

Hi folks,

It seems like quite a while since you all have written me so I’m unsheathing the pen to ask: “What’s going on?” I imagine with corn planting, school finishing up & haying season just around the corner you’re plenty busy. I hope the weird weather up there has finally decided to cooperate with the farmers!

Here we are entering “invierno” {winter}, the rainy season, and things are just starting to green up. Some farmers have corn a few inches tall, but the majority are just planting. Early this month it rained 2 days in a row and some farmers planted, hoping invierno was here to stay, but then it stopped raining for 2 weeks and many lost their seed. This time it appears the rains will stay.

I am starting a new job, working in sociology again. This time I will be working for the Department of Natural Resources. They want to do a big reforestation project and need to study the present socio-economic situation in the region, and come up with an incentive program to get landowners to reforest their lands. The project is crucial for preventing the silting in of 2 hydroelectric dam reservoirs, and for long-range water supplies for the country as a whole. The problem is that their acute population problem causes people to try to plant corn & beans even on land with over a 50% slope, and only 3-4 inches of soil! Land pressure is as acute here as anywhere in the world! This country could serve as the textbook example of the problems engendered by uncontrolled population growth!

I am living in Santa Tecla now, which is a suburb of San Salvador and the major city of highest elevation in El Salvador. It is cool at night – great for sleeping. I’ve picked up a slight cough though, having been used to the blistering heat of the coast!

What is Bruce doing now? Is he working or still in school? What’s Donna going to do after her in-service training? Really, it seems like a while since anyone from home has written & I would like to hear what everyone is up to. Sometimes you may wish it weren’t so, but I’m part of the family so you can’t forget me!!

Just kidding!

Dean

Journal, May 22, 1976 AM

Miz, Ed’s cat is on the tijera {cot} here beside me. She came in & clawed me a good one in the tender part of my leg near my genitals this morning. Needless to say this got me moving!

I made up some yuca last night by boiling it in water and could only eat about half of it. <I’ll try frying what’s left to see if I can get it to come out something like the yuca Sofia’s family makes - delicious.>

I spent another day hanging around Peace Corps {Office} & never got to Recursos Naturales {the government natural resources agency}. Monday I’m going straight out there with Mike Shank.

I ate lunch at Todos shopping center, 3 bananas, 2 sweet cakes and a carton of milk. It’s cheaper than most any restaurant, I can do my shopping on the side, and they have some decent sweet cakes!

Today I’ve got to come up with a list and do some serious shopping. I have to figure out what to eat all next week. Tough problem!

Journal, May 20, 1976 PM

I picked up Anne Frank’s Diary at Peace Corps Office today. I don’t know when I’ll find time to read it, but it sounds interesting. It’s another classic I feel I should try.

Chico {Rodriguez} never got around to taking me to Recursos {the government natural resources agency} today. He took off for Los Cruces in the morning and never returned to the office. So I read up on the project, all the stuff he had given me. Now I’m fully prepared to face them at Recursos.

<I got a nice letter from Sofia saying she likes my English lessons.> I sent her a couple passages from poems to get her practicing English. I got a polite form letter from the City of Madison telling me they don’t have any use for me. So it goes.

Fred Tracy was in the office returning the Peace Corps pickup. He has got a million projects going and is working his butt off, and is happy. Fred more than anyone else from my training group needs to be working to be happy. That’s why he’s such a good {agricultural} extensionist.

I made rice, platanos {plantains} & hamburgers for my supper - ate like a horse. Then I read 2 chapters from “Tierra de Infancia” and an article on the possible weight of photons from “Scientific American”, and I’m ready to call it a night.

Journal, May 19, 1976 PM

No time to read Spanish or English tonight. <After frying up some platanos {plantains} for supper & unpacking, I only had time for another letter to Sofia.> Those letters certainly are time consuming!

I got my May “Scientific American” today. April’s never got here, although another volunteer got his for April. I smell more intra Peace Corps thievery. The thievery of books & magazines among Volunteers is absolutely atrocious. I wish I had a closed mailbox so I could at least not have to worry about my magazines. I want to start collecting those “Scientific Americans”.

I went over to El Maizal just to talk to Mr. Marques this morning and he wasn’t there! Well, now he’ll have to come looking for me. I won’t be hanging around El Maizal playing with rabbits and waiting. Sorry Charlie!

Tomorrow, to Recursos Naturales Renovables {the government “renewable” natural resources agency} to see what gives on my new assignment. Frankly, I hope they don’t push me too hard. I’d just as soon coast through my last 5 months, but I’ll do what I can for the Upper Lempa Basin Project. It’s a necessary project and one of a kind which is going to become more & more common as resources become scarcer & more precious.

Journal, May 19, 1976 AM

Last evening Jay sent off a balloon, sort of celebrating my leaving. It went straight up & stayed up a long time - no wind. Finally it began to come down, & the ball of cotton which fuels it actually went out while it was still high in the air. We were both jubilant about the length of time it stayed up.

I got over to El Maizal yesterday morning to give Marques the materials I wanted to leave him. However, we hardly discussed my leaving or the papers I was leaving behind. I wonder if he’ll make use of them. He wants me to come back today, presumably to B.S. again rather than for anything substantial. I’ll go today, but this is the end.

I treated a wounded rabbit while there yesterday, never fails. I told them it was necessary to tattoo the young rabbits right away. No one was listening. I told Marques & one other guy about the letter from the American Dairy Goat Association containing applications for registry. Marques gave no sign of being interested.

Jay & I collaborated to solve a couple physics problems that were giving him trouble in Chapter 5 of Bueche. The tables have turned. Now he is actively studying physics & I am only talking about it. I can’t use his book while he’s using it, & I am trying to do my sociology “homework” right now.

I read 2 chapters from “Tierra de Infancia” last night. I have to get into the habit of reading a chapter before bed every night. Only like that will I finish it reasonably soon. I enjoy reading it, but having to look up words constantly tires me out quickly.

Journal, May 17, 1976 PM

Another day on the move, at a snail’s pace of course. I started for Metalio at 1 PM and got here in time for supper. I’m about done with all this senseless traveling to & from Metalio. I have to go to Recursos Naturales {the government natural resources agency} with Chico Rodriguez on Thursday, so I plan to pack a suitcase & go into town Wednesday afternoon, and stay there until I can get the Peace Corps pickup to bring my shit in. I put in a request for the pickup for next week. Hopefully Ed Shiffer will be receptive to my moving in with him earlier. This way he’ll get some money to help him get through the rest of this month.

<I wrote & mailed a letter to Sofia in the morning.> I swear I don’t miss her half bad until I sit down to write her. I guess ‘cause it gets me thinking about her, logical.

Chico gave me some more stuff on the Río Tamalasco Project to read, so I’ll have to buckle down and read tomorrow. I will go to El Maizal to tie up what loose ends I can also. Tomorrow they are supposed to give out seed & fertilizer, so I feel more sure than usual that Marques will be there.

Journal, May 17, 1976 AM

I got away from San Isidro yesterday without running into the guy who had invited me to drink “chicha” (corn liquor). I was worn out from lack of sleep & didn’t need any rot-gut {liquor}. It wouldn’t have taken much to wipe me out. I promised to write to Doña Julia Varela, & send her the pictures I took. I’ll send a card to Francisco Mendoza when I get back to the States, too. He was so good to me.

I’m in Santa Tecla at Ed Shiffer’s this morning. I came in last night while 3 of his young friends & he were having a heavy political discussion over Costa Rican / Salvadoran relations. He never seems to be alone. I wonder how I’ll fit into his ‘open house’.

I read through this volume of my journal coming in on the train. I misspell and leave out words so much that I felt obligated to correct things as I went. Some of my moods seem so distant and weird when I read about them later.

Journal, May 16, 1976 AM

Morena wasn’t on the train or at the fiesta. They didn’t get a band for the dance, & that’s probably why she failed to come. Ismael Peña, who said he’d come, didn’t either, but I’ve had a good visit. I wouldn’t want to do it more than once, but one last meeting with some of the local folks is decent. The trouble is that the ISTA {Instituto Salvadoreño de Transformación Agraria or Salvadoran Institute for Agricultural Transformation} people I know are serious drinkers, but they treat me real fine and all. Chico Mendoza found me a girl to dance with for the dance last night, & later took me aside & told me she was “easy”, if I used a little tact. A real old fashioned frat. {fraternity} brother! I didn’t probe her virtuousness, but enjoyed dancing & talking with her.

I got pictures of Don Torribio & Doña Julia, of the grave of Don Pedrito, and a few extras thrown in. They had a good soccer game. San Isidro’s “primera” ended up in a tie with the opposition 1 to 1 in a game which, despite the score, was full of action. This year’s fiesta had a feature last year’s didn’t, an event in which local horsemen tried to take specially made up ribbons off a rope stretched across the road (above the level of their heads when mounted) using pencils. I wonder if it came down from something the early Spaniards might have done with swords?

The physical works of the irrigation project are going ahead. They seem to have all of the roads put in in this sector, and have leveled some good-sized hills. The local farmers are impressed by the heavy equipment being used, & the speed with which it does “impossible” tasks. One farmer said the crews had been working day & night and weekends during the dry season. The project will go ahead, damn the social upheaval & inequities that may result, and certainly will be a big long-run benefit for the country and for local landowners smart enough to take advantage of it.

An old joke was revisited upon me by one local. San Isidro has an enormously fat ISTA nurse working here, and while I was working here she was constantly after my body. One night she grabbed right ahold of me and tried to warm me to the task! I would have none of it, & the agronomos {agricultural extensionists} never ceased ribbing me about it while I was working here.

I slept (from maybe 2:30 to 5:30 AM) in the ISTA office. The dance this year was held right around me on the porch that extends about two thirds of the way around the “hacienda” {large farm or ranch} offices. I was pretty well obligated to stay for the duration of the dance!

7.09.2016

Journal, May 14, 1976 PM

<I wrote the letter to Sofia & mailed it today in San Salvador.> I left Metalio about 10 AM and got to Sonsonate in good time only to get on a wrong bus. It said ‘San Salvador - Sonsonate’ on the front, and was parked in the area where the “directo” {nonstop or express} buses to San Salvador usually leave from, but when it got out to the highway it took a left & headed for the coast! I was pissed, but was not the only person fooled.

Then, getting back to the bus station in another bus, I ran into one of the sisters of Conrad Ebish’s girlfriend. She suggested waiting until one PM for the big Greyhound-style bus. We did & it was a pleasant trip, chatting and riding in a bus with leg room & reclining seats.. It made only one (required) stop between Sonsonate and Santa Tecla.

I checked in at the hospedaje {guest house} near the old Peace Corps Office, bought a flashcube & headed for Peace Corps {Office}, mailing my letter on the way. Chico {Rodriguez} was in, and we talked some about the Río Tamalasco thing. He says we should get together and write up some possible questionnaire questions some time late next week. I don’t know if I’m ready for that stage yet.

I saw Jay, and got a letter from Mary & David. Would you believe they’re going to have another baby in November or December? Yup, just like Mom & Dad, once they got started they just couldn’t stop! I do hope they stop before 10, the world is not ready for ten more Olsens! Sounds like Mary is real busy and very content. Good old Mary is well on her way to becoming a grandma some day! She always reminded us younger kids of one, even at 18.

Wisconsin State Government sent me shit on career positions, like social worker up in Chippewa Falls. Nothing fitting my qualifications or my needs. Looks like I’ll have to just wait & see what’s open when I get there. I’m thinking my best bet is to get a job in a physics lab if at all possible. That way I’ll be learning physics, getting to know faculty, en fin, building reputation in the department, and if my academics are also up to par, they’ll see that I make it financially somehow. I’m thinking again that I want to try taking the Physics first and second courses both at once. That will get me admitted to the department for the fall (which should open up scholarship possibilities) and further establish my seriousness of purpose & reputation.

Tomorrow, it’s the 6:15 train for San Isidro, and a trip into the past (last year at this time I was working in San Isidro). I’m going to the Patron Saint Festivals, to see Don Torribio & Doña Julia, to visit the grave of Don Pedrito, to see some people one more time, etc. The infamous Morena R. {Rodriguez} may go too. That would indeed make the weekend complete. I have never gotten around to calling her & yet I want to say good-bye and tell her to visit me if she ever does make it back to the States. Now that I am a “promised man” maybe we can be spontaneous friends like we were when I first met her. I hope she’s on the train.

Journal, May 13, 1976 PM

I hung around the house all day. I read some more about my new job, a study that some economists and engineers did as a training course. it has some interesting stuff (since I know nothing about the Tamalasco area), and a lot of garbage.

I also washed the canvas on my tijera {cot} and read a “Scientific American” article on a new gadget for separating cells by weight & phosphorescence differences. Reading “Scientific American is bringing the work of scientists more down home for me, taking out the mystery & art. Scientists are just clever, mentally sharp folks, trained extensively in problem solving techniques and a specific field, and paid to try to discover solutions to particular complex problems. I expect to enjoy being one of them some day.

I rode up the beach on my bike after getting my clothes from the lady near where Jay & I used to live, who washes them. What a trip, to speed along the hard-packed sand at low tide, & be able to look over your shoulder at a deep yellow near-full moon just above the treetops. I got caught off guard by a bulging in-wash of water and it splashed up to my thighs. I sat on my bike laughing ‘til it subsided, and then extracted the sunken wheels and tripped off again.

<I was going to write Sofia & I better do it tonight ‘cause I won’t if I wait ‘til morning.> If only I could capture moments like that bike ride & send them on down. A natural high in an envelope! Special delivery?

Journal, May 12, 1976 PM

I just finished reading the UN FAO {United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization} “limited circulation” report on the projected Tamalasco River basin Project. Sounds like the guy who wrote it was most interested in reforestation, and most concerned about the speed at which the reservoir of the ‘5 de Noviembre’ {November 5th} dam is filling up. The job description for the sociologist to be employed in the feasibility study reads like it was written by a forester or soil conservationist as well: “Qualifications: Preferably expertise in rural development problems with experience in organization of low income farmers, subsistence economy and obtaining owner cooperation. Demonstrated on-the-ground experience is the most important qualification.” I swear they divide up all the realistic tasks, & then say, “Gee, I don’t know how we’re going to pull that part off, let’s assign it to one of them smart-assed sociologists, and see what cockeyed scheme he proposes!” What they really need is an LBJ {Lyndon Johnson, former U.S. President} type arm-twister.

Oh well, it’s not my job description, I can just offer my ideas and observations to my counterpart. I’ll give him a little rope, and see if he lays claim to being experienced in “obtaining owner cooperation.” I have to rap some more with Chico {Rodriguez} about exactly what my role is going to be. He probably won’t know much more than I do!

I wrote to Jay Mathes, to Gert {Verberkmoes}, and to Harry Brokish in the morning. I wanted to tell Jay what has happened at El Maizal lately. I expect it will change his mind about coming down this summer, if he still intended to do so. I haven’t heard from him in some time.

I opened up the thermos this morning, & the yogurt was just perfect, about the right thickness and everything. I had some for lunch & supper, & left the bottle in Don Tin’s refrigerator. At last I have successfully made yogurt. Next I must make bread! Ed Shiffer promised to help me realize that ambition.

I buzzed over to El Maizal after lunch to leave off some materials I thought they might find a use for, and see if Marques was there. He had come & gone in the morning. I turned over my rabbit & goat records and technical info., officially, to Aristides. (I felt a wee bit like Pilate washing his hands!) I gave the rabbits some salt & hay, and I watered the eggplant and peanuts. I can’t seem to stop doing chores, it’s a long-standing habit.

The lawyer and some other folks from the {Episcopal} Church showed up, but they didn’t seem to be in a mood for talking, and neither was I, so I left. They did say the coop members are going to get their seed and fertilizer - all except those from Culilapa. Don Santos will be happy about that.

I went out to the beach this evening. Again it had me agape & fascinated. The sun sinking & the moon materializing; the waves rising up, peaking and then tumbling over themselves with a thunderlike sound from the fall of tons of water; the clouds draped in satiny evening wear, and the string of glimmering lights which is Acajutla. I could stand there for minutes, maybe hours, just taking in nature’s ‘Metalio Spectacular.’ “But me I have appointments to keep, and miles to go before I sleep . . . I’ll be more productive farther from this temptation, tal vez {maybe}!

Journal, May 11, 1976 PM

No Marques today at El Maizal. Don Santos says he may go to San Salvador to ask for his fertilizer. He says he hasn’t the money to get it anywhere else.

I left Santa Tecla right after breakfast, and got to Don Tin’s {restaurant} just in time for lunch.

I made some yogurt in the afternoon, at least I think it will turn out to be yogurt. I’m making it in a thermos according to a method Steve Hayes uses & claims is fool proof. We’ll see if it can lick this fool!

<I wrote to Sofia just now.> I may have been a little nasty. She demands so much lovey dovey talk. I don’t know whether I feel I’m above that kind of thing, or whether it just embarrasses me to write it, & I don’t want to admit to my embarrassment. I lean toward the latter explanation in my more objective moments. Anyway, I told her to take it easy, and let the thing move at its pace (maybe I meant my pace, I don’t know!). She’s so honest & good, I’d hate to offend her. (I hear sister Joyce’s most sneering voice: “Yea, wait ‘til yer married buddy!”) Who knows what the “boda” {wedding} will bring, ever?

Journal, May 11, 1976 AM

I got my letter typed and carried over to the church yesterday. Today I’ll be out to El Maizal where Freddy promised that Mr. Marques would be. I hope he’s out there. Then I will assure him that I am indeed leaving, and it will be settled.

I got some info. on the Tamalasco project from Chico {Rodriguez} to start reading this week out in Metalio. One “limited circulation” report & another giant & mostly useless collection of statistics.

I spent the night at Steve Pamperin’s and ate supper at Ed Shiffer’s. I just walked in as Ed was barbecuing steaks & got one. I also had some boiled whole wheat. It was good, & is cheaper than rice. I must remember to try making it myself some time.

Ed says I could probably stay with him starting June first. He’s looking for a roommate to cut down on expenses, and he has a stove & small refrigerator. It looks like a perfect setup for me. I’ll be able to do some cooking, & hopefully save some money that way. He knows how to make bread & is willing to teach me. Beautiful!

<I got a very emotional letter from Sofia.> She wants more letters, and says she wants to know everything I do and think about. She hasn’t gotten any letters since the mochila {shoulder bag} got there, and has no patience. About two letters a week is all I can manage, especially now that I’ll be working more, so she’ll have to be content with that.

Journal, May 9, 1976 PM

Has anyone in the entire world ever tried making oatmeal in coconut milk? The feat was accomplished folks, by none other than Jay Hasheider and Dean Jefferson, (Please spell the names right!) on the morning of 9 May of 1976 in the sleepy village of Metalio, El Salvador. It wouldn’t have occurred to me to try that in a couple thousand years, but I had the oatmeal mixed with powdered milk, & ready to add water, when Jay says, “Wait a minute, I want to see if I can get some cocos {coconuts} to make it with their juice.” It was good, thick and filling, and super nutritious, combining milk, oats and coconut milk.

We hung around the house this morning. I finished my letter to CREDHO, adding my resignation, while Jay struggled with physics problems. I helped him with a couple, & he’s been going like wildfire ever since. I think he just finished the chapter now (9:30 at night), and picked up his banjo.

I went to El Maizal after lunch, & missed Marques who had been there in the morning. I left when the doctors did (Sunday is clinic day), and was halfway to Metalio when I met the CREDHO lawyers on the road. I went back and sold them the two rabbits they have wanted for the longest time. I told them about Don Pedro and some of the other co-op members who knew nothing about the heated meeting in San Salvador, and still were expecting their fertilizer and seed. I said if they let the folks like Don Pedro down, they would have their minds set against CREDHO for good. They promised to mention it to Freddy, and asked Don Juan to take down names of people who still want the stuff. They won’t get things straightened out until they send a promoter around to the cooperatives, and find out what the general sentiment is. I hope CREDHO acts prudently for once, but have my doubts.

Conrad Ebish, his girlfriend and 3 of her sisters were here when I returned. “Why hadn’t I stopped by to visit her?”, his novia {girlfriend} wanted to know. Jay & Conrad sent off a tiny balloon. Twice the flame went out after short flights, and then on try #3 it burst into flames at treetop height. You can’t win them all. The women folk and Conrad left shortly thereafter.

<I wrote a letter to Sofia tonight & packed for the trip.> I hope to catch Chico {Rodriguez} in the office, & perhaps Jaime will be in town. I have to get my letter typed up and take it over to CREDHO. No chance left to lose my nerve.

Journal, May 8, 1976 PM

Well, there was no Señor Marques at El Maizal this morning, but there were some campesinos {peasant farmers} waiting ever more impatiently for their seed & fertilizer, and some others who were in the group that went to San Salvador yesterday, & were still hot with “colera” {anger} from their meeting with Padre {Father} Serrano. I heard about the meeting first from some dude from CREDHO in San Salvador who came out last night to “look after” the seed & fertilizer being stored at El Maizal in the wake of what happened. He said the campesinos were pretty angry to begin with, and they demanded the resignations of Freddy Salguerro and Lionel Marques. In response the Padre said he’d rather lose the coops than those two men, so as it stands now (apparently) CREDHO will give the seed & fertilizer to other cooperatives in other areas, and leave the “socios” {members} from around El Maizal to buy on their own. If they go through with that threat, CREDHO will be all through in this area. No amount of promotion will make farmers forget they got left high and dry by CREDHO’s cooperatives. Apparently, the angriest & hottest headed farmers went in for the meeting without telling the rest what they planned to do. Maybe they didn’t even plan to ask for resignations until something riled them - like the Padre’s selfrighteousness perhaps! Anyway, many farmers (maybe the majority) still want their seed & fertilizer, are counting on it.

I decided this mess was demonstration enough of why it is ridiculous for CREDHO to start a cattle project. Shit, if they get their corn planted after all this they’ll be lucky. It took me ‘til tonight to reconvince myself that I should write that letter I promised Marques saying why I think the cattle project ill advised. I just might include my resignation in the letter. The neatness of it appeals to me.

Lord, the mosquitoes are horrendous today! And Jay strums away on his banjo as I consider reading a little bit of “Tierra de Infancia” before retiring to my hammock.

Journal, May 8, 1976 AM

I have a double-edged assignment from Marques as of yesterday. He wants me to continue working out a budget for the milking shed. But I got to talking with him about the reasoning behind starting the cattle project in the first place. I told him I thought the administrative people (i.e. Freddy Salguerro) started “projects” dependent only upon what they could get money from somewhere for. Heifer Project gave them goats & rabbits, so they have goats & rabbits. Now they got money for cattle, so they want a cattle project. They haven’t stopped to consider the effect of a cattle project on the self-sufficiency (in the short run) of El Maizal, or the need for a cattle project in terms of its usefulness in training their students. I got him to agree with me that a cattle project seems ill advised at this stage. Now I have to write up a report defending my position.

I also stopped by to chat with Chico Rodriguez before leaving town yesterday. He is all ready to go on the socioeconomic study of the upper Rio Lempa watershed. They apparently will expand from one tributary to the whole thing. He says the head of Recursos Naturales {government Natural Resources agency} has agreed to help him work on it now, even though the project doesn’t officially start until August. He will help me too, says Chico. Chico says at the least he wants me to talk with Recursos Naturales’ sociologist once a week or so to exchange ideas with him.

I cooked up my first pot of rice for lunch at Steve Pamperin’s {apartment}. I threw in a pound of rice and 3 cups of water, and it was more rice than I could eat. I left Steve some. Steve got back from Metapán just as I was leaving, so we chatted a while about El Maizal. He too agrees that El Maizal is not ready to manage cattle.

I took the slow bus (by way of Izalco & Armenia), and didn’t get to Metalio until nearly 5 PM. Jay was making another paper balloon & up for talking meteorology, politics, etc. Sometimes he goes on & on upon some speculations of his that I could give a shit about, but he stares right in my eyes, pleading for & demanding my attention, so I have to listen. He cleaned out the kerosene stove, & I made tea. I put vegetable oil on my sandals to soften the leather, & I read the {New York} Times while he smoked dope & listened to short wave {radio}.

Journal, May 6, 1976 PM

Why can’t I just quit? I ran into Profy Gomez over at the {Episcopal} Church this evening, and he said, very diplomatically, that it was “bad politics” for the Church to fire the 2 agronomos {Agricultural Extensionists} and Mr. Castillo “de un solo golpe” {all at once}. What an under-statement. it appears CREDHO had two agronomos from BFA {Banco Fomento Agripequario or Agricultural Development Bank} interested in taking over the jobs of Mejia & Flores, but when they heard about how they had been fired without warning, the BFA guys backed out. Agronomos here are all like fraternity brothers. You mistreat one and none of them want anything to do with you. So it goes.

But I’m still trying to put together a budget for building the milking shed. Steve ran out on me this morning. He went to Metapán with the two FAO {United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization} guys. I think he’ll even spend the night up there.

I went to see the cattle show that is at the Feria Internacional {International Fairgrounds} this week. They had all purebred stuff {cattle}, big breeders - nothing for the small cattleman. I saw a few Holsteins, among them some daughters and a son of Paclamar Bootmaker, a well proven & popular sire in the U.S. Through the wonders of artificial insemination they can have quality Holstein cattle in Central America or anywhere in the world. Whether they adapt well to the climate or not is another thing entirely however. I didn’t see a single crossbred {cow} at the show, but that is what the average ganadero {cattleman} here has.

<I wrote and mailed a letter to Sofia today.> {some text not transcribed} Love by letter is not very emotionally satisfying. Intellectually it’s reassuring enough, but I have no one to touch, embrace, hold onto. Protestant ethic, delayed gratification and all that rot - stiff upper lip lad & no backsliding!

I also bought a 1 liter thermos and some yogurt for starter. I plan to attempt to make yogurt by the Steve Hays method, without the help of the mighty Sun God. May José {Joe} the Canadian forgive me! I hope I have better luck than I had with José’s method.

Journal, May 6, 1976 AM

I’m in Santa Tecla at Steve Pamperin’s. I’ve had my oatmeal, and am ready to go down to the bank with Steve, and try to work out a budget for building a milking shed with feeding & watering facilities, and establishing pastures. Steve is still in bed, but his roommates are up & getting ready for work. Steve Hay’s counterpart is here, & he & Mike Shank are B.S.’ing.

I got sidetracked in my intention to quit CREDHO. I told Mr. Marques I thought that the best thing they could do would be to not get cattle. He wouldn’t listen. I told him we needed pastures and a corral, etc., and he asked about a design for a milking set up. There I was ready for him. I told him about the plans the people at the Banco Fomento {Development Bank} had given us last fall. So we went over to the bank to talk it over, and see what we could do about getting a budget for the whole setup. So here I am. Steve & I will see what we can do this morning.

I attended a meeting that Padre {Father} Serrano and Freddy Salguerro held for the CREDHO coop presidents at the {Episcopal} Church. What a waste. They called those peasant farmers in to the capital to cry on their shoulders about how someone had been going around saying that CREDHO was making big profits off seed & fertilizer sales. They bristled with self-righteous anger. What a joke. The farmers were, of course, very agreeable (apologetic even though they had nothing to apologize for), and made touching statements of their personal confidence in the Padre & CREDHO. After it was over, one farmer asked, “And what price are you selling Gramaxone (a weed killer) at?” It was as if to say, now that your egos are patched up, let’s get back to business.

A couple Gringos {North Americans} who work for one of CREDHO’s funding agencies were supposed to go to El Maizal at 1 PM, but didn’t show up ‘til after 2. A couple of cheerleaders - my first impression. They decided not to go, to wait ‘til there were students at El Maizal. But isn’t it all so wonderful what they’re doing here!

After that is when Marques & I went for a bite to eat & got talking. Why can’t I just quit?

Journal, May 4, 1976 PM

Tomorrow, San Salvador, but alone, Jay decided he wants to stay at El Maizal for the time being, so he doesn’t care to rock the boat. Padre {Father} Serrano has asked the presidents of the cooperatives into San Salvador for a meeting at 11 AM, so I may walk right into that. A whole bunch of folks were at El Maizal this morning expecting to get their seed and fertilizer. Someone from CREDHO showed up & told them the presidents had to go to this meeting, & then maybe they would get the stuff next week. They were none too pleased! As Don Juan says they add the cost of a trip to San Salvador onto the price of the fertilizer, & it comes out cheaper to buy the fertilizer from a local dealer. The {Episcopal} Church is really blowing it. They are losing in days the confidence it took Profy {Gomez} & Señor Castillo over a year to build up among the people.

I helped Jay plant some marijuana seeds this afternoon. He fertilized them with commercial fertilizer, & plans to water them until the rains come to stay. A real farmer!

I’ve got several errands to run for Jay while I’m in town. If I don’t forget my list that is. Really, now that I have it written down I shouldn’t have to consult the list. Usually writing something down is enough. I’ll have to get right on finding a cheap place in the city. It has to be cheap so I can save up for the Costa Rica trip & an engagement ring. Hassles and more hassles just ‘cause I can’t say no to that Tica {Costarican woman}.

Journal, May 3, 1976 PM

Another day, still no Marques. I spent another morning at El Maizal doing big zero. I got my bike back together in the afternoon, but am afraid I put a pinhole in the tube in the process.

The most exciting event of the day was Jay’s return. <He showed up about 8 PM carrying the {Peace Corps} Volunteer newsletter & a letter from Sofia.> They printed my article on the Animal Health Seminar in the paper, with only 2 missing “a”s, plus a disclaimer for all grammatical errors made by the “hick author”. The paper had a couple serious articles in it - more than usual.

<Sofia says she has vacation from June 26 to July 20, or there abouts, so I’ll probably go down there with Jaime about the first week of July.> She says she’s going to start putting together a list of interesting places I should see in Costa Rica (with her). Now you’re talkin’ woman! She put more jive in this letter than any previous one, & wrote more informally (even a little disorganized). That’s fine ‘cause I don’t like formalities, & she continues sayin’ she loves me. I can dig it.

Jay says he’ll go into San Salvador with me to talk to the Padre {Father Serrano} if Marques hasn’t shown up by tomorrow. I don’t know exactly what we’ll tell him, but I’m ready to take some serious action. First, find out what’s going on, & if it’s what I think it is, get out of this mess, and go tell Chico {Rodriguez} I want to try one of his suggestions.

Journal, May 2, 1976 PM

Marques didn’t show. A bitch {female dog} has been into the “conejera {rabbit cages}” and killed two rabbits. There is a whole lot of fertilizer in the storage shed at El Maizal now, & they can’t sell it or the corn seed until Marques shows up to get things going. This was gleaned from my morning at El Maizal.

This afternoon I took the back wheel from my bike apart, trying to straighten it, & to take off the sprockets so as to put in a new spoke. No luck on #2. I’ll put it back together tomorrow, minus one spoke.

<In the evening I wrote a letter to Sofia.> In fact I just finished it and am about to call it a night. The insects have been merciless since early this afternoon. I don’t believe a worthy thought has emanated from my grey matter in all day! I wonder if Einstein had days like this one? A saber {Who knows}!

Journal, May 1, 1976 PM

Tonight we find the author in Metalio preparing to go to bed in his hammock. His tijera {cot} is loaded down with his books because the floor of the beach house is still wet in places from a recent rain storm. And so on!

I mailed my job-probe letters to Madison & Wisconsin State Government this morning (actually I left the them in Peace Corps Office with the money because today is Labor Day). I didn’t get to Metalio ‘til about 4:30, so I just ate, showered, read some of the {New York} Times, drank some tea, and read some of “Tierra de Infancia” by Claudia Lars. The book is my latest attempt at improving my Spanish. She writes simply and cleverly, and the story is about Armenia, the town she grew up in, near Sonsonate. <I’ll read it to my kids some day, if I marry Sofia.> It would be a fitting book to read aloud to children.

I saw Jay this morning (at Peace Corps Office), and he says that Señor Castillo and Señor Flores have quit working for CREDHO and moved their shit out of El Maizal. Looks like things are deteriorating rapidly over there. I hope I run into Marques there tomorrow or Monday to find out what’s going on. I’m not going to spend the whole week waiting for him! I’ll go into San Salvador and wait on Freddy Salguerro if he hasn’t showed by Tuesday.

Journal, May 1, 1976 AM

My watch says it’s the 31st today, and it might just as well be. I’m still under the influence after doing quite a bit of drinking last night. I had my first beer at Spanish class at 1:30. I had some more at the A.I.D. meeting at 4:00 to 5:30. Then we went to El Yugo, a steak restaurant, for a despedida {farwell} for Ron & Nancy Shiflet, who are flying home as I write this morning. Then we had another beer at El Cantón {Chinese restaurant}, and then we went down into a rough section of town (sorry, I forgot a stop at the Bamboo Room first), and heard a little band play as we drank. I was drinking Coke by then. Diego & I went home about 1:30, but Jaime & Mike kept going.

I saw the last few rounds of the Ali-Young fight too. Lord, we really got around!

I stopped by the Episcopal Church at noon yesterday. Padre {Father} Serrano was busy, but I spent some time talking to the wife of a Bishop from the U.S. that is down here. I told her about some of my problems - she was sympathetic. She’s from Vermont, & knows a little about what it takes to take care of cattle. Then I met Padre Serrono’s “old lady”. What a surprise. She is young, pretty, sweet as sugar and a Costarican. What a small world, but her hubby still rubs me the wrong way.

7.01.2016

Images, May, 1976

Doña Reina, Don Tin and some of their younger children, in front of the garden beside their home, store and restaurant in Metalio.

{My friend} Santos in front of the ocean {near Metalio}.

Don Adán, his wife and their children {in front of their house in Metalio}.

6.19.2016

Journal, April 30, 1976 AM

I was doing well, not spending any money yesterday, until I got back from Santa Tecla last evening. I had had only a sandwich since breakfast, & went out & ate “arroz valenciado” {a rice casserole} and a Hardee’s milk shake. I got back to the hospidaje {guest house}, and Fred was back & hungry, so I went & had a beer with him while he ate. On the way back we ran into Diego (also coming back from Santa Tecla), and we went and had 2 more beers. I didn’t spend much, but I had vowed not to drink any beer. I can’t say no to those guys though. It would be like refusing their company. I don’t only have that problem with Salvadorans!

But I admit enjoying my beer, too! Our times together are numbered now. Ron & Nancy go home Saturday, the rest of us in the fall, and work season (invierno {rainy season}) is starting for the pastures & forages extensionists. All too soon our little group will be terminated (The government word for ending Peace Corps service fits the context so well!). And so on!

Today or tomorrow Chico {Rodriguez} & I will talk with Padre {Father} Serrano - if we can catch him (& he deigns to talk with us unclean heathens!). Lord, I’ll be happy to have things with the {Episcopal} Church clarified, whatever the outcome.

Journal, April 28, 1976 PM

Again more beer & more money spent than I needed. <I got the mochila {shoulder bag} & a letter off to Sofia, though my #1 accomplishment turned out to be a well thought out & very honest letter, no glossing over my doubts.> I really have to sit down & think, to sift the essentials from the bullshit when I write her. It would be so much easier to float with the current of the euphoric feeling she gives me, but alas I’m too practical, too pensativo {thoughtful}.

I spilled to Chico {Rodriguez} about the situation at CREDHO, and we’re going to talk to Padre {Father} Serrano Saturday, with some luck. I hope we get the thing settled one way or another. I want to either get some firm assurances that the cattle will be provided for, or get out of El Maizal. Shit or get off the pot, as Gary Fritz would have said.

We saw “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest” tonight - Diego, Fred & I. We had all read the book, so we were a highly critical audience. The movie was good, maybe even deserving of the 5 Oscars, but it couldn’t match the scope, the depth, or the unique, all important style, of the book. It was a story written in novel form, and couldn’t be adapted to the screen without losing a lot. Diego thought the movie could have been better. maybe a little, but never equal to the book. There’s no substitute for a well-written book, if you want to let your mind run free instead of just your emotions.

Journal, April 27, 1976 PM

Whew, I was as stoned tonight as I ever remember being. At the home of our Spanish instructor, Ramil Zepeta, Diego & I got wiped out on his dope. I was having flashbacks to Friendship, Wisconsin like mad, and antsy & paranoid about Ramil being the son of a colonel, all at once. Diego just put on some music, & broke that train of thought.

I’m “living the life of Riley” yesterday & today, and not getting the things done I set out to do during my week in the city. I like to drink beer too much, and dope can give me such an illusion of total calm & insight! They are dangerous for me. <If I’m going to get my life together enough to pursue my dreams, & have Sofia with me, I’ll have to control these two most tempting intoxicants.> So much time you can let slip by while “drugged” (Oh! that has a brutal sound!).

Tomorrow, none of these two, & I’ll try to cover a few “tareas” {tasks} that are in need of doing.

Journal, April 26, 1976 PM

I didn’t have to wade to the bus stop, & I’m in San Salvador, a little blurry eyed & fuzzy headed after 4 beers with Jaime & Diego. I downed 2 aspirin to head off the hangover. I wonder what kind of havoc that causes my system?

I had an interview in the morning, & started Spanish class this afternoon. I’m in the most advanced class with Diego & 2 other guys. We’re going to work mainly on conversation.

<I mailed all my letters & bought Sofia a mochila {backpack or shoulder bag} today - now to mail it. I couldn’t bring myself to tell Diego I’m planning to marry Sofia.> He was questioning me about how I plan to keep in contact with her when I go back to the U.S. I just fear his reaction, Jaime’s too, for no real reason. It has all happened fast, & nothing is formal yet, but still I should be able to confide in close friends.

Fred is sick tonight. It started as a sore throat, now chills & fever, & he’s coughing. Poor guy’s miserable, & the medicine the Peace Corps doctor gave him hasn’t seemed to help.

Journal, April 25, 1976 PM

How beautiful, it is raining, a real downpour. It looks like the start of the wet {rainy} season. This is about a month before it started last year, hard to believe!

Jay’s back & strumming on his banjo. He’s already trying to talk me out of leaving El Maizal to work somewhere else. He always messes with my mind, because he doesn’t care if he does anything useful in Peace Corps, and he makes that sound like the most reasonable alternative. But 20 cows with no pasture, Lord that’s no situation for a guy who wants to take it easy either! I just have to tell the folks at the {Episcopal} Church they are insane if they bring cows into the present situation at El Maizal. With the rabbits & goats just getting by the best they can, how are the cows going to make it?

Jan wrote to Jay. He says it was a real good letter. He really values “good letters”, and takes pride in those he writes. Who knows what this could lead to!

And the rain goes on & on. It started about 7:30 and it’s 9:15. <I wrote Sofia a letter today.> Just a punch-clock letter - I still care, how ya doin’, etc. I put in my morning appearance at El Maizal, no Marques. I figure to stop by the Church in San Salvador tomorrow, after Spanish classes. If this rain doesn’t stop, I’ll have to wade to the bus stop!

Journal, April 24, 1976 PM

Again, Mr. Marques didn’t show up at El Maizal. I studied verb tenses & snacked. I tried cooking up some corn for tortillas in the afternoon. It’s simple to cook it, just put the corn in water, add a little Ca(OH)2 and boil it for about an hour. Smells good too! However, grinding the corn up to make “masa” {dough} is no small task without a “molina” {mill}, so I gave it up & ate some of the corn just as it was. I got filled up on it so will give the rest to some starving chickens or something. Anyway, now I know I can make tortillas if I just have a corn grinder available.

I napped the rest of the afternoon (took a swim & a run up the beach while the corn was cookin’!), & it was after supper before I did any physics problems. I finished Chapter 2 of Bueche, and started reading #3 - the first chapter in which he really starts talking physics.

<Tomorrow I’ll compose a letter to Sofia.> Wish she were here now. But if wishes were horses, beggars would ride! And where would western civilization be without delayed gratification, the good ole protestant ethic! And we used to make fun of the Catholics!

Journal, April 24, 1976 AM

Notice how my entries get smaller when I’m in Metalio? It’s because I’m not doing anything! Marques didn’t show up yesterday either, & I spent most of my time reading “Scientific American”, and studying Spanish grammar. My butt got sore from sitting on the hard wooden benches in the front of the school building.

At 4 PM I finally left. I came out to Kiklita {the beach house where I sleep}, shaved and made my oatmeal with powdered milk for supper. I swiped a little corn from El Maizal, and bought some “cal” {calcium oxide or lime}. I plan to try cooking up some masa {corn dough} today in the afternoon to see how it goes.

I wrote the folks last night, & sent them a roll of film to develop. <I told them just about what I told Jan, that Sofia & I would probably get engaged in December & marry in August of next year.> I don’t know what motivated me to write them about it while we haven’t even made it official or anything. It all came out rather trite and Mary Worthish, but I did it. Now Dad can recognize that the worst is already coming to pass & start accepting it!

Letter, April 23, 1976

Dear Mom, Dad & all,

How is everybody? I imagine you’re all busy as heck with spring planting and all the school functions that pile up at this time of year.

I am sitting here sweating, even though it's nearly 6 pm. April is when the sun passes over El Salvador and we'll be lucky if it doesn't fry us all! I got back from Costa Rica Tuesday night. <I spent the week of Easter visiting Sofia.> It was cooler there, and rained hard three different days – but only for an hour or so in the afternoon. That’s the way it should rain – an hour or so at 3 or 3:30 to cool things off & let you sleep well! <Sofia and her family are all fine, as are Doña Carmen and her family. Sofia has started classes at the university {Universidad Nacional, Heredia, Costa Rica} and seems to like it O.K.> On Monday she started working as well. She has a full-time job days & is going to the university at night, so she is one busy little woman right now.

I’m sending the roll of film Jan started during her visit. I just finished it off while I was in Costa Rica. I don’t know what the first 12 pictures are on it, but I'd like one copy of each of #13 through #20 to give to the people in them. Thanks much for the photos from Christmas, they made a big hit with people in San Antonio {San Antonio de Belen, Heredia, Costa Rica}. Cameras aren’t as plentiful (or cheap!) there as in the U.S. so they prize photos even more than we do.

I have Spanish workshop next week, so I am doing a little grammar study today. <Since I met Sofia, improving my Spanish has become even more important.> She never criticizes, but it's a bummer when I can’t express a thought or feeling I have. She knows only a few English phrases so far, so Spanish it is!

I only have 6 more months to go in Peace Corps. That's good because I feel like I'm ready to move on. Peace Corps is tolerable for 2 years & you learn a great deal, but it’s not a career. I plan to go to Jaime Olson’s wedding in San Antonio, Costa Rica after terminating with Peace Corps in late October. <I'll spend a month or so there helping with the wedding and of course spending some time with Sofia. Sofia & I have talked about getting engaged about that time – don’t be too surprised.> I'll be back in Wisconsin in early December. Hope you won’t all disown me & someone comes to meet me! Hope to find a job in Madison & go to school at least part-time next spring. I plan to study Physics so will have to start with the basic courses. <If all goes well I could be getting married next year in August & bringing Sofia to Madison to live.> No formal commitments have been made yet, but formalities don’t mean much to me & we’re talking about it.

I guess I spilled the beans all over the floor didn’t I! I really had meant to keep all my thoughts guarded, but there they are in blue & yellow. <Sofia’s a very nice person, really.> There’s more chance she’ll say “no go” than I will. She has very strong family ties, never been far from home, and it'll be a big adjustment for her. So we'll see, right?

I plan to get about a pound of some Salvadoran red & black bean varieties to send home so I can try raising them when I get back. Are there any red or black beans commonly grown in Wisconsin? Here & in Costa Rica they are a staple of the diet, and I’d like to see if I can produce them there.

Take care,

Dean

Journal, April 22, 1976 PM

I waited all day to talk to Marques. he didn’t make it out of San Salvador yet. Oh well, I read all about their experience with double-purpose cattle at CEDA, and found out what all alcohol can do to your liver, independent of indirectly leading to malnutrition (“Scientific American”). I’ll have to show Jaime that article on the effects of alcohol. He’s always talking about its nutritive value. The author says even moderate consumption leads to increased fatty tissue in the liver. Alcohol is metabolized, but apparently you can’t gain weight on it like you can carbohydrates, fats and proteins.

I composed a letter to send to the City of Madison & the State of Wisconsin requesting employment. I’ll type them up in San Salvador next week. <I wrote to Jan, telling her I figure on marrying Sofia and about when.> I’ll be very interested in how she reacts to that information.

Letter, April 22, 1976

Hi Jan,

Your letter didn’t get here before my trip to Costa Rica, I found it in the mail box when I got back. Thanks much for the pictures, the 3 from San Antonio are all gems! I gave away copies of all those Christmas pictures to everyone in San Antonio when I was there, so they are satisfied. I’ll enjoy these pictures for a while myself. {some text not transcribed}

While in San Jose one day I picked up a copy of the Tico Times, and there was an ad in it for an elementary school teacher! Country Day School has an opening. That guy at Costa Rica Academy said it: If you’re there looking, you’ll find a job! Have you written to any of those schools yet? I hope they’re still short a teacher in August!

At last my subscription to “Scientific American” has started coming. I applied for it last September. But it was worth the wait! The March issue has an article discussing theories of the origin & destiny of the Universe - theoretical astrophysics. I find myself eager to absorb dense scientific language. Even Peace Corps El Salvador has not deadened the insatiable student in me!

I may leave El Maizal and try to do some more social consultant shit for my last 6 months here. I am feeling restless since I got back from Costa Rica. I feel I need to do something more intensive & at least potentially useful. I hope to lay it on the line to the El Maizal director before I lose my nerve, or my initiative, and slip back into the routine & just keep letting it ride. Jay’s not here right now to tell me how foolish I am to want to do something “meaningful”.

I asked at the U.S. Embassy & they said I could bring bean seed into the U.S. if it is treated and certified. So I think I’ll try to send a little home & plant it next year in the spring. Have you found any red or black beans up there? What about ready-made tortillas? Have you tried making tortillas? Did you find my mystery trunk with the McGovern sticker on it? How did your hemorrhoids come through the plane ride? Phew! I guess that about ends my spasmodic attack of questionitis. Please feel free to answer or not!

On the serious side, I had a very pleasant & mellow time in Costa Rica - even the weather was refreshing. It rained 3 days in a row, but only in the afternoon (for an hour or so). What a pleasant respite from now scorching El Salvador. It is 8:30 PM as I write and I am sitting here in just my shorts! <Sofia and I talked some about getting engaged in November - before I leave for Wisconsin.> Her whole family believes I will go back to the U.S. and never be heard from again, though they don’t show an inkling of that to me. <A ring will make it easier for Sofia to keep the faith too!> I have every intention of marrying her, you know, unless something happens to change one of our minds. (God, the blunt statements I am capable of lately!) Yup, we’ve even talked about when - a year from August holds our favor as “best bet” at this time. <It gives me the chance to get going in a job & in my studies, and it will be a beautiful & not too cold time for Sofia to get her first look at Wisconsin!> I’m itching to find a job & have it waiting for me when I get back in December, would you believe? Perhaps Dad’s first assessment was correct, I’m crazy!

Dean

Journal, April 21, 1976 PM

Let’s see, what was on my list this morning? <I got a letter off to Sofia of course.> Most important things first! I found a pleasant surprise in my mail box this morning, the March issue of “Scientific American” (SA) - at last it has come! So I’ll count the article on the perpetual expansion of the universe theory, which I read in SA, as a start on getting into physics. I talked to Freddy Salguerro, and, as is his habit, he passed me off to someone else. He did say they are expecting delivery of the scale and silage chopper, & that they have the money for the cows (20,000 Colones)! Marques (Profy Gomez’s replacement) agreed to talk to me, tomorrow. So that is the new “showdown” time. I’ve got to be very blunt, & tell him I am not going to even attempt to help them manage their cow herd unless I receive firm assurances that they are going to make the necessary investments in facilities, equipment and labor. They have no corral, no pastures, no milking facility or equipment, and nobody in the whole organization that has any experience with cattle, except me. I am all through donating free moso {manual} labor. They’ll have to hire a full time herdsman plus the workers to plant pastures & sorghum, put up fences, & build a milking shed. I don’t think they have any intention of doing it, & I have no intention of staying around to watch 20 cows suffer needlessly! Perhaps my quitting will give them pause.

I had better luck at the {U.S.} Embassy. they said that if I get seed that is certified & fumigated by CENTA, I will have no trouble taking it into the U.S. Next step is to get out to CENTA and see what they charge for the service.

I got a letter from Jan with some pictures - some of El Maizal & some of Costa Rica. All came out nice. Jan says she’s working hard and trying to learn Spanish - has found an instructor. I have to write her about that job opening at Country Day {School}. She should have written them by now.

I made myself some oatmeal for a snack tonight. First time in a while, & it tasted good.

Reading about the fact that the universe is expanding (so they say), I wondered if it might not be illusionary. It’s substantiated by the Doppler effect - which even I had read about previously - so if the accepted “laws” of physics hold universally, it must be so. But motion is all relative, so if everything is moving away from everything, only relative distance is changing, so mightn’t it all be an illusion, and does it make any difference? My words don’t have the ring of cogent scientific thought, but reading the article made me believe physicists haven’t really got the creation figured out yet. Maybe not even as nearly as they believe they do. A “big bang” theory doesn’t say why the bang occurred, what formed the “pre-bang” universe, etc. The article said it was meaningless to ask what came before the bang. Smells like a cop-out!

Journal, April 21, 1976 AM

We had a pretty good smooth trip up in Tica Bus, talked with a girl from New Zealand who was on the bus. Jaime got off in Jocoro, & I got into San Salvador about 7:30 PM.

I really have a tough time taking Jaime sometimes. He’ll get into minutely analyzing some trivial thing, & go on & on. He’ll explain to me exactly what he’s going to do when he gets off the bus, & all his contingency plans if something goes haywire! And he’s always got times and distances down to the minute or kilometer, but still throws in an ‘about’: “Yes, it’s about 172 kilometers to the border, and if we keep going at about say 60-65 kph. {kilometers per hour} we’ll be there about 1:15, etc., etc.” He’s a nice guy - unquestionably one of the most decent people I know - but sometimes I’d love to say, “And so what, Jaime, who gives a damn?”

I didn’t read at all on the bus yesterday, instead I was mulling over ideas for getting a job in Madison. I think I’ll write to the city government and state government, and get applications. I’ll try to give them an idea of my situation and qualifications in the letter, so maybe they’ll channel me into something that fits my needs. I’ve also thought of writing Merna about the possibility of working as a waiter or bartender at Hoffman House. I would just ask about the prospects, not ask for help. A decent job would sure take some worry out of my life. I could carry about 10 credits, & just slide through slow if no scholarship help was forthcoming. <And marry Sofia, on schedule in August, que bien {how nice}!>

I also need to get into studying physics now more than ever, to get my mind oriented. I want to read another novel in Spanish to improve my command of the language. I have to talk with the Padre {Priest} and/or Freddy, to find out if there’s any future for me with CREDHO, & if not maybe spend my last 6 months working with the Cerron Grande dam project. I want to ask the U.S. Embassy about importing a little bean & corn seed into the U.S. Plenty to do, and I better get at it before another case of the El Salvador blahs hits me!

Journal, April 19, 1976 PM

Here we are in Managua again - back to the source, where this journal began! And so?

We got pretty well primed for the trip this morning when, as we were drinking 2 beers in our now customary pre-departure bar, some guy started buying us beer, & bought us 3 more. It was just as well, since the bus didn’t leave ‘til 11:30. 10 AM was scheduled departure time. We gave a shit!

<I showed Jaime the picture I extracted from Sofia last night. Sofia’s sister and her boy friend had showed it to me.> It is a picture of her at about 10 years of age with short hair, very boyish looking, but she still has those eyes. {some text not transcribed} So I showed it to Jaime, & he was unimpressed.

It’s late, & we’re due to “madrugar {get up early}” tomorrow so, that’s all.

Journal, April 19, 1976 AM

{some text not transcribed}

Jaime & I played some cribbage in the morning yesterday. Sometimes he gets so involved in a card game I don’t believe it! He’ll sit there looking over a completed game, & giving me a sportscaster-type recap: “Well, let’s see, at the start I was just playing along, not doing well, but staying in the game, not getting much “pegging”, and that kept you in the lead. Then I had a couple good hands, & some real fine pegging (12 points one time), and took the lead at about midgame . . ., etc.” I’m sitting there trying not to show my infinite boredom & impatience too openly (just enough to get him to wrap-up and play his cards!), because Jaime is so sensitive, & can’t begin to comprehend that anyone would not be interested! He’s the same way with sports, he’ll read a Miami Herald sports page, and then give an impromptu rundown on pro. baseball, college basketball or whatever. And the next tidbit of news he gets, he’ll revise it all for you. I’ll grant I often enjoy it ‘cause I used to be a sports addict, but down here, away from it all especially, I’ve become aware of the superficiality of it all. And he’s just gotten more addicted.

<All for now, I expect Sofia at 7:30 or so to say goodbye, & I catch the 8:00 bus into San Jose, & the 10:00 Tica Bus for Managua.> Away from this tranquil scene!

Journal, April 18, 1976 AM (Easter Sunday)

I decided to finally give Doña Carmen the towels I brought her from El Salvador. Easter Sunday seemed like the most appropriate time. I set them out on the table at 6 AM and am waiting for her to find them. She’s up & around so it shouldn’t be long.

I also decided to leave the 100 Colones I want to give her in an envelope on my bed when I leave. That way she or Marielos will find it, & she won’t be able to refuse it. I hate scenes like that!

<I spent all day yesterday in the house here; until 6:30 when I went up to see Sofia.> I was reading “Another Roadside Attraction” by Tom Robbins, and went through over 200 pages. I only have 15-20 pages to go to finish, but anticipate an anticlimax. I’m afraid the book itself will fit the Johns Hopkins professor’s description of Marx Marvelous’ Ph.D. thesis: “brilliant. but frivolous.” There are some fine insights into such things as authority, identification with symbols instead of the morals they purport to represent, and mysticism. It is really a study of religion more than anything, terminating with an indictment of Christianity for separating spiritual & natural man, & thus being largely responsible for our present state of existence, which Robbins contends is frustrated, callous and self-destructive. I think he comes down a bit heavy on well-meaning little Yeshua, but I say ‘right on!’ to his indictment of the Church’s authoritarian structure.

Being in the house all day I was made painfully aware of the really tragic state in which the Castillo Murillo family lives. They either watched T.V. or gambled all day long. They play a game where you divide the cards into piles, & place your bet on top of one. Everybody bets against the dealer (usually Don Fabio who of course has the most money). The entire family, down to Mauren, gets into it, and they yell at each other & bicker but apparently enjoy it. The poor kids. They are good kids, but they’re being taught to gamble & waste time away, instead of reading, playing sports, or caring for animals. They’re being molded in the same mold that produced Don Fabio & Doña Carmen. Too bad! Too bad for Marielos, 16 and a real charmer with eyes as big as saucers. Too bad for Mauren, 5 and a blonde, green-eyed skin-flint with the quick wits and playfulness of a healthy young animal. Children are so brand-new and malleable - such potential, such potential!

<Sofia was telling me last night about a neighbor of her married sister in Heredia. The battle-axe had the nerve (balls?) to tell her that when her husband goes off to the mountains Saturdays hunting, she should refuse to fix him lunch when he returns. The bitch apparently doesn’t hesitate to fight with her spouse, & yell at & hit her own kids liberally, so she figured Sofia’s sister ought to follow suit!> There is no other combination of traits quite as disgusting in a human being as naked, callous brutality and supreme self-assurance. How ugly some of God’s children let themselves become.

Journal, April 17, 1976 AM

“Sunshine, lollipops & rainbows, everything that’s wonderful is what I feel when we’re together. Brighter than a lucky feather . . .” I think it’s an old Petula Clark song, and it somehow sifted to the front of my mind this morning as I shiver, & gaze out into the bright early morning. It rained late yesterday afternoon, & the freshness has remained in the air. That’s also why it’s so chilly. I’ve even got a little cough this morning.

Yesterday was like a breath of fresh air - no hassles, no heavy talk or worries. We went up near a town called San José de la Montaña (which as you might expect is up in the mountains). It was cool, green & fresh up there, & we snacked on watermelon, mangoes and oranges in a cow pasture. <Sofia brought me a pair of special tamales (yum! yum!). Sofia went flower picking, & I was following her when we were spotted by the management & ordered out of the cattle’s private sanctuary.> They even tried to order us off the road in front of it.

Relegated to roadside, we took a walk along the narrow & winding road. Up above the heights of the coffee plantations, there were only dairy farms (with Holsteins) and vacation homes, & these not piled on top of each other as they might be in El Salvador.

<We had some weird tamales at the house of a friend of Sofia’s family (they were sliced like bread, & about the texture & consistency of banana bread), after the rain washed out our game of “hot potato”. On the way home we visited Luis’s house, and Sofia, as usual, got her mitts on the baby.> The kid got so attached to her, it wouldn’t leave her for it’s own granddad! That’s an all too common occurrence. When we’re at her house I always have to share time with her sister’s child. And so it was last evening.

<I had a good meal at Sofia’s, & left early since we were both tired. I had some more to eat at Doña Carmen’s.> Making the blunder of saying I was a little hungry still, & wouldn’t mind a tamal, I ended up with soup & rice as well!

Today, I have officially been in Peace Corps El Salvador for a year & a half. May the last six months go by quickly!

Journal, April 16, 1976 AM

The old romance is at a critical stage right this minute, another crisis. God I'm sick of crises! <Last night she {Sofia} told me ominously to go home, & think about what I was going to do with her.> It seems she’s got it in her head now that we should be married in November with Pilar & Jaime. She whimpered about losing her best friend & her fella both at the same time. I felt like saying, “Life is tough all over!” Sometimes when she comes on with her spoiled little girl act I just can't take it.

She’s scared to death I'll forget her when I get back to Wisconsin, & she also has doubts about her ability to adjust to being without her family, friends - possibly without countrymen. No question it’s goin' to be tough. It was one of the first things I said when she took the initiative to get this thing started. But there are long range advantages if she’s willing to endure, & work at it.

I can smooth her entry into the culture if I’m already established there. I can seek out, & make contact with Latin student organizations & Spanish House. I can start growing Costarican varieties of beans. I can have us a place, & me a job which will permit me to study at least part-time, whatever she decides to do. I’m just not willing to take her back to nothing, & be forced to latch onto the first place & job I can, and probably defer the studies. I've told her over & over but either it doesn't register or she's starting to realize for the first time what life she'll be getting herself into! I hope it's the former, but maybe she is just another soul that is too attached to break the ties, and discover the world beyond.

6.15.2016

Journal, April 15, 1976 AM

I wonder if Dad’s planting oats today. I’ve told so many people here in Central America that we plant oats around April 15th in Wisconsin, that I’ve come to believe he has to plant right on the day, almost.

Yesterday we were on the move so much I only got one meal, breakfast. <We went to Ojo de Agua {swimming resort} in the morning, & to visit Sofia’s married sister in the evening.> Afterwards I had a beer & a half. <Sofia had the same as part of her policy, and with so little food in me it was enough to make me sleep like a baby.>

That water at Ojo de Agua was so cold I would come out of it shivering. <No one else was affected by it, not even slender, frail Sofia, and she’s worried about Wisconsin weather!> It’s so invigorating though, cold spring water from deep in the Earth to bring goose bumps to your flesh and then that hot tropical sun to warm you to your bones. The man who saw that giant spring, envisioned it all, & designed the system of falls & pools was a genius. The cold water keeps flowing through the system so the pools are practically self-cleaning.

I got back to the house in time to watch Doña Carmen make some tamales. They heat up the banana leaves so they fold around the tamal without cracking. The whole process doesn’t look too tough. You just need corn “masa {dough}” with lard & spices mixed in, and the meat, white beans, potatoes and/or “picadillo {chopped meat and vegetable mixture}” to put inside. Just package the filling in the “masa” and wrap it in the leaf. They cook them in a pressure cooker now. I wonder what they do in El Salvador where not too many folks can afford pressure cookers.

<About 4:30 we got off to Sofia’s sister’s & her husband’s house in Heredia. They live in a little colonia {neighborhood} of cement “boxes on a hillside” on the very edge of town. Actually, it’s very quiet & quite nice, except for some as yet unidentified shrill sound which kept piercing our tranquility. They have a parrot and 3 smaller birds out back. One of the 3, a finely featured, medium blue beauty, was restless, and moved with incredible speed from one to another of the 4 perches in his cage. It reminded me of a Roadrunner or Speedy Gonzales cartoon, because you only see a blur when it moves, & then there it is, perfectly still, looking at you from the other perch. We had some warm & superb raisin cake & some pasteles {pies or turnovers}. The filling was the color & consistency of pitted & mixed up prunes, but the flavor was distinct. You never really find out what good “postres {desserts}” they have in a country until you get invited into private homes! It’s true here, El Salvador, Wisconsin. And you need to find the good cooks of course!

Journal, April 14, 1976 AM

Jaime & I got our visas & reservations all set yesterday, but killed the whole day in San Jose in the process. In addition to the $3 we had to pay for our visas for Nicaragua, they’re going to rip us for $2 to leave Costa Rica on Monday. Everyone is on the take for the Easter holidays. We are commemorating the triumph over death of the savior of the world, so pay us off if you want to go anywhere. What brotherly Christian countries are these!

<Sofia was in a doubting mood last night.> Me vas a olvidar cuando se va {You’ll forget me when you leave}. Apparently her whole family has been telling her this is what likely will happen when I go to the States in December. I can’t be positive, I told her, but I didn’t expect I would. I finally gave her the other half turn of this perpetually circular argument - that she could be the one to change her mind & call it off. Nothing can really relieve the doubts when they set in of course. It’s a feeling not a reasoned idea, so after a while we had to let it lie.

Journal, April 13, 1976 AM

<Sofia & I did some serious talking last night.> {some text not transcribed} We talked about the details of the marriage ceremony here. She claims I don’t need a baptism certificate, but Jaime said he had to have one, so I still am in doubt. She says you have to promise to educate your children in the Catholic Church. I don’t think much of making that promise! <But for Sofia & her family a civil ceremony - or any ceremony outside THE church is not valid.> I can handle going through the ceremony. I see it as essentially a community certification of our relationship. But I’m not ready to embrace the Catholic religion (or any other institutionalized church) blindly. <I see the advantages of education in the Bible & the general system of moral values that a church advocates, and I don’t think Bible teachings can be that different in the Catholic Church than they were in the Congregational Church, but I don’t like Sofia’s single-minded belief that the Catholic Church is the only proper way for her kids.> I guess it’s because the Catholic Church has been the central institution of Latin American communities so long, the symbol of order & propriety. I should remember the power a church can have after the research paper I did on the Negro Churches in the South, when I was at A & T {North Carolina A & T State University}.

<Ironically, Sofia is only a lukewarm Catholic, but the marriage in the church, baptism & education of the children in the church, etc. is such an essential and invariant part of the community life here, I really don’t think she could imagine it any other way.> It’ll be interesting to see her reactions to a predominantly Protestant society, where religious activity & community activity are not so tightly intertwined.

We even talked about timing of the marriage. We’re both excited about an August wedding. The canicula is such a green, beautiful time here & we would get back for fall in Wisconsin. That would fall into line with my education schedule since University {of Wisconsin} classes start around the end of August. <Sofia could take semester courses only & thus break her studies in August without losing credits. Sofia has God’s own fear of Wisconsin winter - probably my fault - so this would give her a chance for gradual acclimatization.> Lord I don’t know how we’ll swing it financially, but I’ll work full time (at something!) and study when I can, if necessary. A semester & summer at school before she joins me should give me plenty of time to get something reasonable worked out.

The whole morning yesterday was a washout. Jaime & I couldn’t get visas or tickets confirmed, & must go back today. A couple of tactical errors in the Easter week rush, & you are out of luck!

We got back late for lunch, & I ended up eating at Pilar's 'cause Doña Carmen had an urgent errand to run. I just hung around there the whole afternoon then, & played cards & B.S.'ed. Don was over twice, & he's always got local gossip to spill. Jaime’s planning to have his folks stay at the luxurious Irazú Hotel, since its prices are not bad, cheaper than most other tourist hotels. It’s one of the best. His folks should find it to their liking. I’ll have to try to help him manage things. That wedding is going to be a big project!

Journal, April 12, 1976 AM

<I can’t really say anything of substance has changed between Sofia & me from yesterday morning ‘til this, but my mood has. I guess it’s just being around Sofia for a while, the worries slip away.> I did get some verbal reassurance from her as well. She knows we must wait a year & a half, and accepts it, regretfully, like me. She’s honest enough to say it’ll be hard, & she’s not sure, but she’s confident she can make it. That’s probably what’s heightened my spirits - she’s so confident & assured right now.

One negative note though. She says the folks held a family conference on whether she could go up to Wisconsin for a visit, and went thumbs down on the idea. Pshaw! Thwarted by the family autocracy again! But it may not be the final word yet.

<We went to “dar una vuelta {take a walk}” with Jaime & Pilar, and 2 of Sofia’s sisters last night, & Sofia had a beer in the Soda {local restaurant}.> But she had the waiter put it in a glass instead of bringing the bottle, so no one would know! Some secret, she should have asked for a colored glass!

Journal, April 11, 1976 AM

We made it of course, & I am in the Castillo Murillo house where I spent the night. The family is bustling around, & something is frying for breakfast with a constant crackling of lard. The super romantic tones of a Latin love song are coming over the radio. I think that’s part of what’s got me upset & tense this morning - the women here just live on that crap. They never seem to find a realism somewhere between that unattainable (& really undesirable!) dream world, and their own men who generally drink too much, & chase anything in a skirt. But how different is it really from a small town in the States?

Yesterday we had the company of the Guatemalan Girl Scouts ‘til we hit the border in Peñas Blancas {Costa Rica}. They were met by their Costarican hosts. <After the 2 beers we drank at the border wore off, I began intensely, almost feverishly to read “You Can’t Go Home Again”, feeling somehow that I had to finish it before seeing Sofia. I was engrossed in Wolfe’s thoughts, and also had some (half absurd) feeling that if I finished, I would find some thoughts which would help me resolve my own dilemma with Sofia.> Wolfe’s insight into who our “enemy” is in America & indeed in the world(!), was a gem, but he never felt the need for or sought a lifelong companion of the opposite sex. Indeed, he had a rather chauvinistic attitude toward women, though I’m sure most women of his time period fit his description (due to their socialization into it of course). Wolfe was an accurate & vivid describer of life, above all else that he was.

<So all yesterday & still I am drifting in this attitude of discontent with my relationship with Sofia.> She’s a beautiful person - loving, honest, pure of soul - but her perspective is so closed in in this infernal little town. And she can’t see it, & has no will to break the bonds. Last night she was teasing me gently about marriage again: “Si algun día nos casemos {If some day we should marry} ...” And a good little San Antonio girl has to marry in white to show she’s pure and wear a crown of flowers, etc. She says it’s necessary for her parents, not her, but you can see the glow in her eyes that says it will fulfill all she was taught as a wee girl about the good, the proper & the beautiful.

A frank private talk is in order. When we talk in her house I can never tell if she is giving me her sentiments, or what she knows the people on the other sides of thin walls want to hear. I too hesitate to talk frankly in that situation. <The whole process is so tied into the family in San Antonio, but it ain’t Sofia’s fault!>

4.12.2016

Journal, April 9, 1976 PM

It’s been a memorable day. Poor Jaime {Olson} almost got left by the Tica Bus. He was waiting in the restaurant in San Miguel where we always stop to eat breakfast. But today the bus was running late & the driver didn’t even slow down. I recovered from the shock of realizing we actually whizzed right by where Jaime had to be waiting (I could picture his look of disbelief & utter despair in my mind!), and went forward to talk to the driver. He was late & in a bad mood, & wasn’t going to turn around, but a group of Girl Scouts from Guatemala started chanting “Que regresemos {Let’s go back}!”, and got the whole bus to go along. Thanks to them we went back. Then Jaime wasn’t there! As it turned out he had run after the bus for more than a kilometer, & after a minute, came running back. When he boarded the bus panting he was already a celebrity! The Girl Scouts were chanting his name. Ironically, I had been thoroughly disgusted with these same girls shortly after we left San Salvador, when they began fairly shouting some of their favorite cheery songs while I was trying to read. Just like Girl Scouts on an outing in the U.S.!

The incident of us forcing the driver to go back for Jaime broke down the tension which usually separates bus passengers, & we talked at length with the folks on all sides of us. A truly remarkable phenomenon! Jaime lent his cards to the Girl Scouts. They invited us to sit with them at lunch, & we had to show them pictures of our “novias {girl friends}”. We rapped with 3 North Americans and 2 Costaricans who were all traveling together - extremely nice people! A girl from Nicaragua who lives in San Salvador started up a conversation with Jaime, & ended up giving me the names of several good books by Central American authors. What a breakthrough a small crisis can be!

We had the bottle of marañón wine on the road and 5 bottles of Victoria beer with supper, & I’m still under the influence. Another look at the pictures from Christmas in Costa Rica, & I will retire fully primed for my arrival there tomorrow. <Limber those long arms up for a strong embrace Sofia!>

4.11.2016

Journal, April 8, 1976 PM

I’ve been doing it all day, writing down things I had no intention of writing & then having to scribble them out. <I guess I’m nervous about seeing Sofia again.> The more important a person is to me the more nervous I get about seeing him. I feel I’ll show myself inadequate - figuratively piss my pants or spill my drink all over me! And then there’s the other side: Is she as good and beautiful a person as I’ve imagined her, or have I just imagined I saw in her the qualities I wanted to see? But what-to-fuck, I’m goin’ down there!

In honor of starting the second volume of the journal, I am going to take a drink of a bit of wine made from a fruit called marañón, and describe what it tastes like. Well, it tastes strong and sharp, & doesn’t really have a distinctive taste other than that. It reminds me a little of some dandelion wine we made at home once. It didn’t quite turn out, but was it alcoholic! I detected a kind of a funny flavor in this marañón wine, but now I think it was only the plastic glass. I’ll go get a glass one.

Yeah it was just the glass, but Lord this stuff is strong - got me feeling woozy after 2 shots. I’ll save the rest for Jaime & me on the road. At 6 {AM} I’m on my way, Costa Rica or bust!

I’m in San Salvador of course, at the usual 4 Colones boarding house. I dropped off the tattoo-er in Sonsonate on the way in this morning. <I got 200 Costarican Colones from Banco Salvadoreño {the Salvadoran bank} (at 3.404 per Salvadoran Colon), and bought Sofia her shell necklace, & Doña Carmen her carrying bag.> I also got Doña Carmen some Salvadoran towels - she always raves about mine. It’s sort of a thank you for letting me stay there when I come, & being so good to me.

I got a letter from Gert Verberkmoes in my mailbox today. She’s all set to plant her garden, & extra happy because a neighbor’s tree that used to shade her garden finally succumbed to Dutch Elm Disease. That’s what keeps her alive, 75 years old, but always looking ahead to the next job, & the next little bit of excitement that’ll come her way. She wrote me a while back, worried I was throwing my life away - giving up a chance at law school, & now getting involved with a woman down here. She makes everyone’s problems hers, & the interest she takes in them, keeps her vital and active. How very alive she is!

I went out to Steve Pamperin’s after supper at La Florida {restaurant}. I owe him for a phone call, over $40, but can’t pay ‘til next month. My money’s all committed this month. I didn’t expect the bill back so quick. He was heading for a bank function so he brought me into town (& introduced me to a nice young secretary who’s looking for a novio {boy friend} from Cuerpo de Paz {Peace Corps}!). Steve’s so good, but so conservative that he shuts himself off from a lot of things. He better watch out, or that secretary will latch onto him & marry him though!

2.16.2016

Journal, April 7, 1976 PM (Wednesday)

I’m ready. I not only am all packed for my trip to Costa Rica, I have already locked the suitcase, & laid out my clothes for tomorrow. <I had the suitcase all closed once & remembered that I hadn’t put the pictures from Christmas in - after I gave Sofia permission to kill me if I forgot them!>

It was not an eventful day. I put in my morning appearance at El Maizal, ate some frozen jocotes and 2 ripe mangos. I reminded the agrónomo {agricultural extensionist} that we need to start selling rabbits, again. We have 87 rabbits, Aristides & I calculated. There will be more tomorrow as one female rabbit is due, & pulling fur from her chest!

I planned to play some softball in the afternoon with the Plan Basico {Basic Plan} girls. I put on my running trunks, muscle shirt, tennies and baseball cap (it was un-Godly hot!), and rode down to the school on my bike, but they didn’t show. It’s not the first time that teacher has told me there would be practice such & such a day, and then skipped out! I consoled myself by going swimming and running on the beach.

I experienced guilt feelings for doing absolutely nothing Peace Corps “mission” related all afternoon, but really there was nothing for me to do at El Maizal. I hustled & did it all in the morning. I won’t be completely content as long as I’m in a flunky job like this though. I’ve got to do something which furthers my search for answers about life & the universe. Reading is the only activity I have right now which is pointed in that direction. And of course people watching & analysis, which is a constant. I have been feeling the need to write strongly since I’ve been alone, since Jay left. I can’t get started though, shoot down all my ideas before they get to my fingertips! I guess the need isn’t strong enough to overcome my self-doubt & fear of ridicule yet. Here ends volume I of my "memoirs", never thought I’d get this far!

Journal, April 7, 1976 AM

I’m still reading "You Can’t Go Home Again". {Thomas} Wolfe will get bogged down describing one person or one event with endless petty superlatives, repeating & repeating his main point until you are sick of hearing about it. But then he’ll write a passage where you hang on every word because it just drips with the truth that only a man who has tirelessly analyzed his own experiences can tell. I think Wolfe limited his experience & thus his perspective though by spending most of his adult life in the center of New York City. His is a hard, callous portrait of life. Man endures it, defies its constant attempts to squash him. There is little of man exulting in the beauty and power of nature, love for land tilled with your own hands, or the exuberance of passionate love (of a woman or of nature) in his writing. They are not part of Wolfe’s vision.

I tattooed goats yesterday, and counted new baby rabbits, and turned over the compost in our compost pile. If I didn’t know it was a compost pile, I’d swear it was just a pile of heating stinking manure, just like we make at home when we can’t get on the fields in midwinter to spread it! It’ll be great organic fertilizer in any case.

Aristides brought a big bag of jocotes for me. They were ripe ones (you can eat them green too), bright red outside and yellow & sweet within. They are something like plums, but smaller and sweeter. I ate hundreds of them at this time of year in San Isidro last year. Everyone there seemed to have jocote trees. I forgot my bag of jocotes at El Maizal yesterday. Or rather, I forgot the half a bag I didn’t eat there!

I planned to spend the afternoon writing my article about the animal health conference for the Peace Corps Newspaper. I got all set to write, and along came Elena. First time I’d seen her to talk to in a while, and she was up for talking. I pretended I was trying very hard to write, but she seemed not to notice. So I dropped my pen, and started asking her questions. She’s still taking sewing classes and hanging around home. No wonder they get married, the alternative is prolonged, absolute boredom! We got to talking about Jay and Susan. She (Elena) had assumed Susan was Jay’s sister or some other relative (so she said). I said no, just another of Jay’s many friends or "novias {girl friends}", if you prefer that term. Then she wanted to know how-come-is-it Jay has so many “novias” and I have only one, and her an unseen, & thus questionable entity off in Costa Rica? She was being as forward as she dared, telling me she was open to the suggestion, but I ignored the implication, and answered with my one-good-novia-basta {is enough} line. Lord I’m not ready for romantic involvement with Elena of all people. I know her too well!

I did get my article done after she left. I had brought out my sheaf of photos to show her the great change we undergo up north between winter and summer. I tried to center the article around the idea of hicks in the city, but it came out kind of disjointed like my thoughts are these days.

I ate supper, tried to watch the sun set (It went behind a cloud before it got to the horizon, & I gave up on it.), washed off the “tattoo-adora”, and read some more Thomas Wolfe.

I tried sleeping in the hammock, but was restless, and slept poorly because it doesn’t allow me to toss & turn as I’m prone to do when I’m not physically tired enough to sleep soundly. It rained last evening, how refreshing & renewing. I love that ozone smell, can get high on it!