7.14.2017

Journal, March 21, 1977 PM

<Sofia is still feeling sore in the abdomen.> She has some kind of infection in the urinary tract, I think. She urinates often and it is painful for her. Whatever it is has been building up since our trip to {Playas del} Coco. Today we’ll make our third attempt to consult with a doctor about it. <Sofia tried in Heredia Friday, and we tried in Alajuela Saturday. Sofia is being strong, but I’d like to see her cured quickly.> It’ll be expensive since we have to go to a private M.D. Not until Saturday will the Seguro Social {Social Security, the national health care plan} inspector be in Santo Domingo so we can see about getting health insurance for her. I’m feeling the weight of my responsibility to her. Right now I have a bit of cash in reserve, but what if I didn’t? I may not 6 months from now!

When I run the calculation through my head, starting with the 1,953.40 Colones I make per month, I just shake my head & wonder how we’ll come out! <Take off 700 Colones for rent, leaving about 40 Colones per day we have left to spend for everything else, including the electric bill, food, clothes, Sofia’s study expenses, etc.> I picked up a 44 Colones check for beer last evening! I see lots of home-cooked rice & beans in our future.

Steve Pamperin arrived yesterday by plane from El Salvador. <Sofia & I just caught him at the bus stop. We were late.> Jaime {Olson} didn’t meet him because he was in Guanacaste with his charges {Peace Corps trainees}. We drank beer & caught up on “old” friends and the political situation in El Salvador. Things are extremely tense there. The church has apparently come out quite openly against the government due to a priest being murdered near Aguilares. Steve is glad to be leaving in June. I’m glad to be out. He shares my preoccupation for Fred Tracy.

Letter, March 20, 1977 ?

{ Thank you }

Mom, Dad & all,

Just a note to say thanks for coming down, and for the pressure cooker, too. <I read the instructions & showed Sofia how to use the thing to make beans, works good!>

Things are going all right here. <Sofia has some kind of urinary tract infection & the pills for it are hard on her stomach, but she’ll be through taking them in a couple more days, and should be back to normal.> She’s started classes at the university {National University, Heredia} now, so it looks like from now on we’ll both be bustling around.

I sure enjoyed your visit, & hope you got back in good shape! <Did I tell you Sofia’s parents had never been to the airport until they went to see you off?> It was a big deal for them!

Take care,

Dean

Journal, March 18, 1977 PM

I abruptly ended my epistle yesterday when the beer truck arrived. I didn’t even put a period to the last sentence until just now.

Today I should recap my folk’s visit, since I’ve neglected everything concerning that week except our lovemaking! It was a good visit. <Mom & Dad approved of the kind of folks Sofia’s family is, and they approved of my family (not just my parents, but Jan & Barb, and Mary & David as well).> The little ones were, as expected, a big hit with everyone. They enjoyed the serenade and wedding, though the communication gap left them a bit frustrated. Dad danced! I never had seen him dance before, but at the reception he pranced around light-footedly with both Mom & the new bride.

Mary had all she could do with the little ones & David took lots of pictures. Jan danced a bit. She’s thinner, in better shape than in years & she was burned from her visit to Ojo de Agua {swimming resort}. She caught a lot of lurid looks from the Costarican males, but didn’t seem to mind. Chito (Pilar’s brother), half bombed, tried to hustle Jan & Barb, calling on all of his limited English!

<When Sofia & I got back from Playas del Coco {Coco Beach}, we took Dad, Mom & David to visit her grandparents.> Mary watched the kids. The folks enjoyed the visit, but the highlight of their week, at least for Dad who was always the most vocal, was the train trip to Puerto Limón, which they took Wednesday.

<In the evening my entire family delegation, and Barb Walsh, got together with Sofia’s family to have supper in the family home.> It was a genuine Costarican feast, but I couldn’t do it justice, having eaten a monstrous lunch at El Cencero in Alajuela with my folks.

Jan & Barb left on the morning Tica Bus, and the others on a 3 PM plane. <Sofia’s parents made their first trip ever to the airport to see my folks off.> It was not showy, but a deeply emotional farewell. I felt the same lump in my throat I’d experienced when Jaime’s {Olson} folks said goodbye to Pilar’s folks. Only the lump was bigger, I almost choked on it. They were all my people!

Journal, March 17, 1977 PM

I hope this is the last time I have to wait on a beer truck for a while! I’m at El Ande, for I hope the last time in my life, waiting for the Cervecería de Costa Rica {brewery} to come get their damn cases of empty bottles and beer, and leave me in peace! I don’t even like the music they’re blaring over the sound system here. Some Latin Donny Osmond!

What a life I lead! This morning I measured the last 100 of some 700 grains of rice for the replication of a weird experiment Dr. Mora thinks is “muy buena {very good}.” I’ve been sitting here adding up the pages in my account book & reading La Nación {newspaper}, things I can’t seem to find time for at home now that I have a wife to occupy my time. <Last night Sofia was feeling sore in the abdomen and cold, but wouldn’t go to bed alone, & let me catch up on a few things.> She hung around in her flimsy nightie rubbing her body against my shoulder and shivering.

Journal, March 16, 1977 PM

<Yes, our lovemaking has been superb, and Sofia has taken to household tasks so dedicatedly that I feel embarrassed at times having her doing so much for me.> She finds tasks for me when I’m around though. She’s no martyr or willing slave.

<Several of her sisters came to visit Sunday with one sister’s boyfriend.> Monday it was her mother who came, to help wash clothes. <Yesterday she went to La Asunción and brought her younger brother back to keep her company.> They’re checking up on me! But then I give a damn. <Sofia’s done wonders in the apartment, and she makes good meals.> They leave us alone in bed! <Once Sofia’s into school she’ll be too busy to keep such close contact with them.> More important, her mother will eventually accept the fact that she’s a mature & competent married woman.

Journal, March 14, 1977 PM

Of right I ought to write a book today. I’ve felt the need and desire to get down on paper both events and feelings during this intense last week, but simply have not found the time. I’ll try to summarize a few highlights.

<Lovemaking with Sofia:> It has been the most powerful emotional experience of my life. Descriptive terms like “getting your rocks off,” “fucking” and “screwing” were appropriate for describing my few brief encounters with prostitutes. <They don’t apply to what I experienced with Sofia.>

{some text not transcribed}

7.13.2017

Journal, March 5, 1977 AM

Today is the day (we hear the mice say). Today is the day of the great mouse ball!

Yesterday was hectic & sometimes headachy, but last night was for the fairy tales! Dave Quarles arrived from El Salvador. <Sofia’s sister’s boyfriend & I stole a bag of ice from the Hotel Irazú (where my folks are).> The serenaders played so beautiful. Two bottles of Jack Daniels bit the dust. Fred & I killed the last quarter of a bottle of guaro {Costarican rum-like liquor} to climax the party! <Sofia was beautiful in her “mono {coveralls}.”> No más {more}!

Journal, March 3, 1977 PM

I think I was sick of sitting around in El Ande by about 11 AM. At noon the administrator, Don Miguel, came over to rap. He’s very friendly and acts like he’s sincerely interested in you. But what an S.O.B. of a businessman. He was going to get the pop for me & handle it all for 30 Colones per case (plenty expensive enough for the 25-30 cases involved). When I came back to confirm the deal, the price was 36 Colones with no explanation. That’s why I’m still waiting for the pop truck, which was supposed to arrive at 10 AM.

When the beer truck finally came at 12:30, Miguel backed me (unofficially) to save me the deposits on the cases, but then chimed in with the beer company dude to try and convince me to buy 20 cases instead of ten and forget about buying any Tropical {brand} beer. I stood my ground calmly for once, but it was disconcerting to have the guy I’d just been chummily B.S.’ing with turn and put the pressure to me like that.

Journal, March 3, 1977 AM

Here I sit, waiting on a beer truck and a pop truck in El Centro de Recreo del Ande {Ande Recreation Center} in San Antonio {de Belén}. It looks like things are fairly well under control as far as wedding preparations are concerned. I need something to put the ice & beer in yet, and something to chip ice with, but the beer company should be able to help me out with one thing, & I have a screwdriver and a heavy wrench for the other!

It is cool and breezy this morning, and El Ande has some beautiful flowering bushes. Pigeons are breakfasting in their house attached to the tree next to the one my table is under. “A peaceful, easy feeling,” I’ll accept that phrase.

<Staying over at Sofia’s last night was a good lesson in human relations.> Living alone, even for a short time, one tends to forget that others hustle & work as much or more than he does. <Sofia’s older sister was still at the sewing machine cranking out wedding clothes when I went to bed at 10 PM. This morning another sister and a brother were off to work by 6:15. Sofia was up at 5:30, as were her mother and an older sister.> She gave me a delicious ‘good morning’ kiss! <Her father was hopping around in his cast by 6:30, getting ready to paint the stairway leading to the house, and his wife was reciting the list of errands he had to do today.> I don’t know how he does it all with a cast on one leg! Yesterday he killed a pig, and last Saturday he went to Heredia to buy 20 liters of guaro {Costarican rum-like liquor}.

They have painted that house inside and out, put in light fixtures, fixed up the bathroom and put in shower curtains. It’s been a lot of work & expense for them, this wedding. For me that is part of the beauty of it. It’s such an anti-economic undertaking, all to create meaning in the lives of two people and two families. Perhaps meaning creation is the great mission of human beings. If so, then the religious scholars, the scientists, the poets, the painters and sculptors, the architects and songwriters are all on the frontier. Making wholes from bits of knowledge & materials. Creating reality from facts and objects.

Journal, March 2, 1977 PM

Today is another pretty average work day, but tonight and tomorrow the wedding prelims take over as the major focus of my actions. <I have to buy more liquor in Heredia today, and Fred will be at Sofia’s for dinner tonight.> Tomorrow they deliver 10 cases of beer to El Ande (and possibly the pop if I find the proper place to order it from today).

I feel more nervous about getting everything organized than about actually getting married. The decision to marry and undergo the hassles of a big wedding celebration has already been made. I’m immersed in details of the event. That in no way implies that I have no doubts about the whole enterprise! <Sofia is a high risk person to marry.> She is opinionated and demanding, perhaps even “high strung” fits. She expects a lot from me, but conversely she promises to give a great deal. She’ll never bore me to death, though she already bores me at times with her gossiping with other women & her detailed analysis of trivial internal matters of her family. She’ll pull a new initiative or attitude out of her hat every little bit! She may become a monster if she doesn’t adjust to the fact that I can’t and won’t attend to her needs and whims with the good-natured solicitousness her family does.

<Sofia says I must correct and constructively criticize her so that she may grow.> She says her family doesn’t do it enough and that she can take such things better from someone she loves. I hope she was sincere about that, because I’m making a special effort to make mental notes of things she does that I disapprove of, and finding an opportune time & way to express the gripe & suggest alternatives. It’s tough. <Sofia is an argumentative person, and if the criticism is not properly aimed & properly cushioned, she starts a frontal defense (or counterattack) without pausing to consider the constructive merit of the gripe.> I even love her in those moments. She’s so open and frank and blunt without malice! But I’ve yet to live with her. We could clash royally, who knows?

Journal, March 1, 1977 PM

This may be the last installment before the wedding. I’ll work yet tomorrow, then take Thursday & Friday off to run the last-minute errands for the big fiesta {party}. In the last week, I‘ve been in San Antonio {de Belén} more than I’ve been home. I get home at 11 or 11:30, drop into a deep sleep, and get up at 6 to start over. Dr. Mora has given me things to do at work, so I haven’t been able to get back to the computer science book.

I’m going to have an adequate family representation at the wedding. Jan is coming, along with Barb Walsh. They’ll be here Thursday. Mom, Dad, Mary, David and the little ones will arrive Friday. It’s great, but also means I’ll be running myself ragged-er these last days before the thing.

Another late news item: Gerardo Chavez, Doña Teresa and Doña Lupita from Santa Tecla {El Salvador} are coming to the wedding as well! They also expect to arrive Thursday. I want to try to meet the Tica Bus they come in. <I’m trying to get Sofia to find them a place to stay in La Asunción, but so far she hasn’t said “sí ó no {yes or no}.”> What a grand gesture of friendship it is for them to come so far & spend so much money to see me married! They are so poor, I don’t see how they justify it, but aren’t they wonderful!

<Sofia & I have been having our arguments lately.> It’s like we’re trying to lay the ground rules for the marriage, and surely looking for that magic answer or glance or something that will tell each of us he or she is right to take the giant step of marriage with the other. We have yet to banish the doubts, but we always finish by clinging to each other and to our decision.

Fred Tracy laments that his friends generally change when they get married. They no longer find time for their friends and they “become older.” <It’s happening to Sofia and I for sure. Her younger sister is mad at Sofia & tells her she’s crazy to marry.> I’m getting to be so practical, I’m liable to turn into a CPA at any time!

It’s impossible to judge our relationship at this precise point. The marriage process is a strain on any two people. It’ll be like a cool evening breeze when it has all blown by & we’re left together, in the apartment that first night, at the beach the following day, ah!

7.11.2017

Images, March 1977

{ The Catholic church in San Antonio de Belén where Sofia and I were married. }

7.10.2017

Journal, February 23, 1977 PM

I made it home on the bike last evening in 35 minutes, only getting off once to walk up part of the hill between Tibás and Santo Domingo. That hill is a bear going either way! They ought to have built a big suspension bridge between the two towns. As it is you have to go down into a deep gulley and then come back up out of it. It’s so steep that even in the lowest gear on the bike, you are straining away to push the pedals. You can’t get a run at the hill either because the other side is too steep to let go and race down. Also at the center of the gulley is a bumpy one-lane bridge where the cars take turns crossing.

I felt like a real little homemaker last night. I made soup; I went to buy groceries; I cleaned some beans and put them to soak for cooking tonight. I had left food wastes in a box in the kitchen, and the ants & flies were after them. I had to bag them up (and then I forgot to put them out for the garbage pickup today). I also dusted and swept. God, how the dirt accumulates in that place. Santo Domingo is so windy, the place is open under the roof, and we have a gravel road in front. Dusting & sweeping should be done daily, but I don’t have time. I must go pay respects to the priest in San Antonio {de Belén} once again, so the clothes will pile up.

I’m into subalgorithms now in the computer science text. Yesterday I put screen windows in plastic pail lids for Carlos’ {Reed} experiment, but today I am mostly unoccupied. I think the background from reading the text may serve me some day. I’ll almost certainly have to take a computer course when I return to college. Anyway, it’s good discipline & keeps the mind ticking away.

Journal, February 22, 1977 PM

Fred Tracy is in Costa Rica. <Sofia and I went to Pilar & Jaime’s to look and there he was.> We did a lot of talking over his & Jaime’s supper, and over 3 pitchers of beer at the Jardín Cervecero {bar} later on. <Sofia liked Fred from the first, which was satisfying to me.> I’m pleased when she sees the same good traits in people I do and appreciates their worth.

Poor Fred, he’s working hard and yet is a bit unhappy. He claims he can’t get into the same kind of relationship with new PCVs {Peace Corps volunteers} that he had with people in our group. He talks in that special semi-awed tone he has about what a special group we were. I too feel a special thing for the group. We were all pretty sincere, open, flexible and curious people, but I fear Fred is letting his nostalgia impede his adaptation to new situations, new people, new realities. I made the statement that it would never be the same even if the group did get back together again. Fred insisted, “For some of us it’ll be the same.”

Fred is so good as a worker & friend that I wonder how he can treat Marlene like he does. He spends little time with her, makes few sacrifices for her, and she’s another Pilar (i.e. a near saint). I guess he’s not ready to appreciate a good woman companion yet. Who am I to judge?

Fred brought me a bottle of Jack Daniels, and news that Dave Quarles has come back with a “pansón {belly},” and toting some of the filthiest pulp books Fred ever saw. I wouldn’t have expected Dave to get fat. I’m a bit disappointed, though for sure he’ll work it off in the heat.

I rode the bike here to CIGRAS today. It took 45 minutes, despite my horrendous physical condition. I walked the bike up two steep grades.

Journal, February 21, 1977 PM

The other day when I was deep into computer algorithms and the jargon they contain, I wrote a couple doodles concerning mankind and marriage. I’ll store them here for future reference or disposal!

<Yesterday I awoke with a firm determination to have a serious one-on-one talk with Sofia about the need for more communication between us.> I went to her place. <I took her down by the little monument to the Virgin near her house, though we didn’t get away without her young nephew.> And I hemmed and hawed around for a while trying to find the words to verbalize the doubts and worries that were floating around in my head. I pretty well succeeded, eventually, and then she began to talk, and we found that the same instinctive mutual understanding that was evident in our long letters was still there though it had been a while since we had reached in and pulled the shades to expose it to the light.

I’m vastly reassured. <With Sofia I’ve nothing to fear but my own insecurity!> Her impulsiveness and brashness is complimented by a sensitivity and a profound rationalness. If my arguments are sound I can convince her.

{some text not transcribed}

Letter, February 18, 1977

Dear Mom, Dad & all,

If you want warm weather you’re going to get it when you come down here. The days are already very warm, and it never rains. March they tell me is the hottest month of the year here so you can leave your long undies home! However, in Santo Domingo, where I’m now living, it is quite cool & windy in the evenings. I wear a sweater or overall jacket, generally.

I want you to bring me down a couple things when you come.

First, I need 4 rolls of film for the girl who’s going to take pictures at the wedding. She needs KODACOLOR 2 for a 35-mm. camera (the film has a number, but she didn’t know it, but with the type & camera type you should be able to get it). The rolls are 36 picture ones, for prints, and she wants 4, OK? I think I’ll send the film back with you to get it developed too since they don’t do a good job of developing color shots here.

Second, I need to get a statement from the bank in Adams which gives my total interest earnings for 1976 (that would include the Golden Passbook account & 2 C.D.’s {certificates of deposit}). It looks like my income for 1976 may just squeak over the minimum for paying Federal tax. It depends on how much of my Peace Corps allowance is taxable. They raised our readjustment allowance, plus I got special pay for home leave & that may do it. So if you can get a statement of my interest, I have the W-2 from Peace Corps & am getting the other info. I need.

Don’t bring down any wedding gifts please. If we get some stuff from people here that we won’t use right away we may send it back with you. Things like china that would surely break if sent back by freight. <If you want to bring some little gifts for Sofia’s family or the family I lived with in training, that’s OK.> The cheese and sausage I brought went over well. They’ve never seen cottage cheese, and the U.S. produced liquor is much more expensive here than there (just ideas).

Wedding arrangements are coming along. Today we go to see the priest, with Jaime & Pilar as witnesses, to get the preliminary paperwork taken care of. <I’ve got my suit, & Sofia’s dress is about done.> My biggest problem right now is groomsmen, since I know so few Volunteers in Costa Rica, and most of my male friends here in general are married. Not too grave.

I really want to know what time you’ll be arriving so I can meet you at the airport. I’ll probably take that day (March 4) off from work to run errands anyway, & may rent a car if I can afford it. <That night some local musicians are going to come and serenade Sofia.> You’ll want to see that.

Take care,

Dean

Journal, February 16, 1977 PM

<It’s been a week since I wrote, and looking back on the last lines I wrote, I reflect that Sofia was cariñosa {affectionate} Wednesday night and even more so Thursday when she came to my apartment chaperoned only by one of her oldest sister’s sons.> {some text not transcribed}

Thursday night I rode my bike to Heredia. Friday I washed & waxed it, and Saturday I rode it to San Antonio {de Belén} “para marcar en bicicleta {to visit the girlfriend on my bicycle},” as Enrique Villalobos put it. From San Antonio to Heredia the slope is all towards San Antonio, so riding there was easy. I made it in half an hour. <I arrived at 7:20, in time to catch Sofia heading out to exchange a coverall the family had bought her.>

The pill is having its effects. <Saturday Sofia said she had felt faint & almost passed out the night before, and Sunday, when we went bowling with Jaime & Pilar, she got almost unbearably irritable at one point. The common wisdom is that on the pill the body thinks it’s pregnant, so this is a preview of what Sofia will be like in the early months of pregnancy.> Oh boy!

<Monday, Valentine’s Day or Día de los Enamorados, Sofia was going to prepare me supper at the apartment, but some little bastards (local boys on vacation from the colegio {high school}, surely) teased her (she was alone) and came & sat in front of the apartment.> She got scared and left. So I went to San Antonio, feeling like a true bashful beau with flowers & a gift. I only lacked the slicked down hair and ’57 Chevy!

She received me very warmly, wearing her new coverall (“mono”, a present fad) for the third straight day. Last night I made a super vegetable & rice soup, and washed pants. <Today Sofia will bear up and go to Santo Domingo again.>

I’ve been reading an introductory computer science text at work last week & this to fill abundant idle time. I think I’m in chapter 5, learning about algorithms to formulate problems for computer solution. The logical nature of computer programming appeals to my order-loving mind, but the redundancy and general drudgery of setting up problems for a half-wit machine doesn’t appeal. It’s essential that I understand programming, but I don’t really think I want to write too many programs.

7.08.2017

Journal, February 9, 1977 PM

Last night I bought the necessary parts and fixed my bike up. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a spring for the sprocket changer I had so I finally gave up & bought a new changer (108 Colones). I tried finding one in San Salvador and in Madison {WI} with similar luck. The one I bought is a very popular brand, so they should have replacement springs when I need them. Who knows if it’ll still be popular when I need a spring!

I took the bike for a spin at 9:30 or so. It worked A-1, and I got a pleasant rush just bopping around on it. It felt as good as it used to in Metalío. Now I need to wax it to slow down the rust. I may ride the bike to San Antonio {de Belén} Saturday for the exercise. I want to ride it here to work, but the first time will have to be a weekend so I can check the time necessary for the trip, & the feasibility of it. There is a steep, steep hill between Santo Domingo & Tibás!

I finally got a cutting board and celebrated by making hamburgers with green peppers & onions. I also cooked up some beans last night, making a hell of a mess when they ran over.

I bought two rat traps and a knob for a kitchen cabinet as well, and a covered pail to store food in (against rats). I put the knob on & set the traps in between baking beans & fixing the bike. This morning I found the bait gone from one trap, but the trap not sprung. Those rats are intelligent (and possibly experienced in handling traps)!

I’m reading from a computer science text to keep occupied today. Things are at a stand-still in my experiment, & Dr. Mora is busy. Carlos & Renán are both (seemingly) busy so I feel a little guilty.

<Today I hit the Post Office, the bank, and then lit out for San Antonio, hoping to find Sofia “cariñosa {affectionate}” today.>

Journal, February 8, 1977 PM

Yesterday I completed my wedding attire by buying a tie and a belt. I found to my great surprise that leather belts are cheaper than plastic ones in San Jose. I wonder if that holds for other leather goods. I of course bought a leather belt.

<Sofia and her younger sister waited and fed me supper at the apartment.> They must have had an adventurous afternoon from appearances. They planted a leaf in a plastic cup I had some seeds planted in. They burned a fuse on the outlet where I usually hook up the radio and the electric fry pan. Probably had them both going at once. They apparently set my two plastic bags of garbage out in the wind, and the shit was in the gutter in front of the place when I returned. This morning I found that the frying pot (It has handles like a pot, but is shallow like a frying pan.) was put away wet & with rice residue still lingering in it.

I was a little disturbed by some of these discoveries. The garbage I more or less scraped from the gutter, the fact that they didn’t tell me about the blown fuse, and the wet, dirty pan. I hope that it was all just goofing off because the two were together. {some text not transcribed} <Sofia must make some adjustments when she’s with me all the time.> She says she likes to do things well, have everything orderly, etc. Yesterday leaves me wondering.

I went to see Dr. Pardo {Peace Corps doctor} about a little lump I have just above my right ankle. I’ve had it for 2+ years and just got around to asking an M.D. about it. He says it’s a type of cyst, and that it will swell up, burst & drain now and then, but that it is nothing to worry about. I also asked him about Peace Corps responsibility toward non-U.S. citizen wives and he confirmed that it is zero. If we have a child, I can get money for that, whoopy shit! He said he will do medical consulting for my future wife, but medicine, exams, hospital is all strictly our problem. <It is a big risk for Sofia unless she works & thus gets automatic health insurance.> I’ll ask her if there isn’t a government plan whereby you pay a premium and get healthcare when not working. She’s had health problems before, so it’s dangerous to be without coverage.

I ran last night & physically I feel tip-top today. I really must discipline myself to get frequent vigorous exercise. I feel much more relaxed and take a more positive, constructive attitude toward the world when I’m in decent physical shape.

Journal, February 7, 1977 PM

<Sofia and her younger sister came to visit me at CIGRAS today. They had come to the university to check on her sister’s grade on the entrance exam.> Apparently she didn’t do well enough. Her name was not on the list of those admitted. I’m sure a disproportionate number of the top scores on the exam are made by kids who went to the best (& most expensive) “colegios {high schools}.”

The Universidad de Costa Rica is largely a school for the children of the wealthy, from appearances. Anyway, the girls weren’t here very long and didn’t really seem to want to be introduced to everyone. Renán said he was sure they weren’t relatives of his because he didn’t have any relatives as good looking.

Friday evening I went with Ramón to see a man about a bed. The guy will make me a bed with headboard & cabinet for 650 Colones. That’s dirt cheap, but it won’t have a nice thick mattress on it. I plan to give him the go-ahead today. I can always buy the big mattress later if I think I need it.

<I helped paint the front of Sofia’s family’s house Saturday.> I spent from before 9 AM until almost 8 PM there. They fed me good & I didn’t work all that hard. I sure burned my arms though, painting in the hot sun in my T-shirt. <Sofia & I were wearing matching playfully loving moods, and it was a very pleasant day, all in all. Poor Sofia jumped off a chair & broke the bottle of paint thinner, so other family members went on a wild goose chase trying to find more so we could continue the job.>

{some text not transcribed}

Yesterday we spent a mostly boring afternoon at the Campos Gonzalez home. <Boring primarily because Jaime {Olson} was off visiting and I was left with Pilar, Sofia and Marita.> They hadn’t been together for a good gab session in some time it seemed! We watched “El Chapolín Colorado” and “El Chavo del Ocho,” ate hamburgers with Pilar & Jaime, and went to a pretty dull mass.

<I recall that Sofia was in a talking mood all the time I was with her.> We were discussing drinking problems. <Her sister’s boyfriend has one.> Her father had one for about 2 months after his mother died. My father never drinks more than one drink at a sitting. It seemed I would start a sentence and she would go off on another 2-minute burst of family wisdom & gossip. I was developing a headache by the time I left her at her gate. <Her sister’s good old boyfriend had waited and gave me a ride as far as Heredia.>

Journal, February 4, 1977 PM

<Sofia and I talked with the new priest (one of the two) this morning.> It was kind of an anticlimax. As it turned out, he was no spit & polish Spaniard, stickler for details, but a young Spanish priest with a mod hairdo who came here from the U.S. where he had spent 2 years in New Mexico. He will marry me with just my passport and my witness. We go back to see him the 18th at 7 PM. I think with him I might be able to talk about religion on an intellectual level. Perhaps I’ll get the chance.

<Sofia & I both had rather long days yesterday, & we clashed a bit.> I was in one of my preoccupied states of mind where I almost shut out all other stimuli. I was thinking about how to get a bed to fit in our tiny room, & how I might measure the room to be sure, since I have no ruler. <She was being hurried by her sisters to leave right now, & then I made a highly ill advised comment about her having served 2 meat dishes for supper. It turned out one of her sisters had bought “mortadela {lunch meat}” after Sofia had already gotten veal to make.> But she got angry with me first & then threw that crucial information in as a “besides” when she was scolding me. And oh how I hate to be upbraided before other people! I then completely clammed up & was sullen. Twas no big thing, but every such breakdown of communication worries me.

I ran off my frustrations taking a jog around Santo Domingo. Today I plan to attempt bed buying in Santo Domingo. Ramón {my coworker} says he knows the furniture dealer on the corner.

Journal, February 3, 1977 PM

Monday afternoon I bolstered up my courage and boldness, and called the Costarican YMCA office to ask Brad Smith, who is the subdirector, if he would consider taking pictures at our wedding. I had met him (just briefly) at Peace Corps director Gary O’Neil’s going away party, and noted that he was a photography buff. It was highly presumptuous on my part & I fully realized it. I was so nervous & keyed up about it that I talked fast & sat there by the phone almost visibly shaking and feeling my heart pounding on my ear drums when it was over! He must be a very decent person. He took it well, & promised he would ask a friend who had done such things before if she would do it.

Tuesday afternoon I dropped by the ACJ (Asociación Cristiano de Jovenes) {YMCA} to see Brad. I arrived carrying my shaving kit, a bundle of hangers, a cooking pot, my shoulder bag with my usual junk plus a kitchen knife and some garlic gloves in it, and a paper bag with two glasses, a spatula and a potato peeler in it. I was wearing my jacket (despite the heat) in order to carry it over to the apartment in Santo Domingo. I had not taken time to shave that morning. He was busy with a man who sounded important, so a very proper young lad conducted me to his office where I awaited him.

He promised that he or Catherine Lambert would take my pictures. <I asked him to come to dinner some time at Sofia’s.> He asked me to keep an eye out for an apartment in San Jose for a friend of his. <He said he was very busy right now, but would try to come out to Sofia’s in a week or so when things calmed down.>

I still don’t like having asked the favor, but Brad Smith has made it very easy on me.

Feb. 1, I ate leftovers and tried to get things somewhat organized in the apartment. Feb 2, I took flowers & popcorn (in grain) to Doña Carmen’s as a “recuerdo” and carried off the last of my stuff. She said she & Don Fabio would almost for sure go as Padrinos {Godparents} for our wedding. Her mother keeps getting worse. I think Doña Carmen is finally starting to accept the fact that she’s dying.

<I ate at Sofia’s and we had an animated necking session.> One day of not seeing each other made all the difference!

<Tonight Sofia has promised to prepare a meal at our apartment, and we’ve invited her sister and the sister’s boyfriend.>

I want to get a line on a bed today.

Journal, February 1, 1977 PM

Today I move into the apartment in Santo Domingo. <Yesterday Sofia and a sister went over to clean the place up and make me supper.> They said the people came out of their houses to stand and stare at the two of them! <The sister says she even heard one old guy whose wife had called to him from inside say, “Just a minute, I’m watching the girls go by.”> I’m not sure if they were doubtful about the girls’ moral standards or just plain curious.

<In any case, Sofia made me a fine, fine supper, her sister ironed all my clean clothes (including the T-shirts & she’d have ironed my BVDs if I had any clean ones laying around!), and the house was uniformly spotless, with a smell of strong disinfectant. Whatever else she may be, Sofia is a cleanliness & orderliness freak.> Grandma Jefferson would have loved her from all reports!

I had to go back to San Antonio {de Belén} last night, so I took the bus to Heredia with the girls. Once there, they informed me that there was no bus to San Antonio until 10 PM, but that we could go to a movie. Obviously they had it set up ahead of time. I was trapped. They were clever enough not to tell me about the San Antonio bus until we were in Heredia, so I couldn’t suggest an alternative, like listening to the radio or walking around Santo Domingo.

For movies we had a choice of “The Guns of Navarone” and “Tu me Enloqueces {You Drive Me Crazy}.” Fortunately they were cheap, 6 Colones. The women folk went for the latter picture. It was an Argentine version of the old & best forgotten Elvis Presley line of pictures where nothing mattered but his voice & posing, and of course the beautiful chic. The “tipo” (star) even looked like Elvis, & wore open-chested garb to show off his hairy chest like Elvis. The chic was an overdone copy of the “old” Ann Margaret image. Needless to say, it was diverting!

Poor Doña Carmen! Even on my last night in her house I arrived late (10:30), and this morning I gulped breakfast and ran. Some boarder and “adopted son” I’ve been of late!

<Night before last Sofia and I got back into the heaviest theme we ever touch on.> I feel I am largely wasting my time here, intellectually, and she immediately assumes that includes her, though I try to explain I’m only talking about my job which is not furthering my long range intellectual goals much. She then attacks (and from that point dominates the conversation with her doubts and preoccupations). She fears I will one day shut her out almost completely in favor of scientific interests, and warns she won’t tolerate such abandonment of her & especially of her children. She says she sees the makings of a “mechanical existence” in my personality already. I counter warn that she must cultivate her own interests because I will not devote my life to being her caretaker and entertaining her. As before we reached no conclusions. Only time will tell, and neither of us is ready to give up our relationship to go look for a potentially better one.

7.04.2017

Images, February 1977

{Partial front view of Lolita Gonzalez's house, "Mi Casita," in Santo Domingo, Heredia, Costa Rica. }

{ Me inside our apartment in Santo Domingo. }

{ Me in the garden behind our apartment in Santo Domingo. }

7.03.2017

Journal, January 30, 1977 AM

I have the shirt, the shoes, the jacket and the pants in which I will be married. Yesterday was another expensive one, but the 2 major items noted in the account book were mine this time. Just about all the hardware for the wedding has been bought now I guess. What we lack is things like music, a photographer, the hall, refreshments, flowers, etc.

We could have a “padre {priest}” problem in getting married. It seems the present priest, who is from La Asunción, and a very decent, easygoing sort, is being transferred to Zarcero, and that two Spanish priests are going to take over here in San Antonio {de Belén}. Local common knowledge is that the priests from Spain are real hard-liners when it comes to marriage procedures and the like. <Sofia is going to talk to the priest before he leaves to see what, if anything, he can do to facilitate our marriage.> One might wish that petty politics were not a factor in the supposed house of God.

<Sofia and I ate at a legitimately good restaurant for the first time yesterday.> Pancho Villa is a Mexican place, and the Mexican atmosphere was marred only by the radio, which blared out early 60s U.S. rock music. I had my first shot of tequila ever, so smooth! <Sofia said it was the best place she had ever dined.>

<Sofia’s sister’s boyfriend really came through for us. He brought his brother’s Datsun pickup, and with it we moved nearly all of my stuff (and a smidgen of Sofia’s) over to the apartment in Santo Domingo.> There was plenty of room for the bike, my suitcases, everything.

Ramon {a co-worker who lives in Santo Domingo} was out getting saused-up, but we were fortunate and got into the apartment. <We arranged things, went to El Ranchito {bar} for beer and came back to have a little lunch prepared by Sofia and her sister using my electric frypan.>

Que susto {What a scare}! All four of us got ourselves locked in the little bedroom when the key didn’t work to get out into the little patio. I had locked and secured the other door (to the patio of our landlady’s house), so for a moment we were caught in the frenzy of being trapped there. The girls went bananas and started talking fast in high pitched voices. I was bemused. I eventually unlatched the little door to Lolita’s {Gonzales, our landlady} patio, went around her house and opened the door from in front.

For future reference, I submit a rough plan of our apartment.

Journal, January 28, 1977 PM

Yesterday I really enjoyed myself. In the morning we collected some more corn samples. We got two from an uncle of Enrique {Villalobos} who is a real character. The little old fellow lives all alone in an unpainted wooden shack full of corn he is storing. He dresses as if he was poor as a church mouse, but owns 2 farms and had some kids picking oranges & loading a big truck with them when we came by. He has a little metal cart with rubber tires and a big horse to pull it. He has some beautiful plants around his house. I took a cutting from one, a bush with many-colored leaves.

Enrique says the old fellow used to drink a lot, and through the family he got the one little farm so he could get away from civilization and perhaps “dry out.” he then won the national lottery and bought the second farm with the money.

Later in the day I got to meet Enrique’s dad who owns a dairy farm near Zarcero and milks about 20 cows. The guy could as easily be a farmer in Adams County, WI. He showed us his calves, and talked about how this one was out of a Carnation bull and that one out of a NOBA bull. NOBA, ABS and Carnation are 3 {US-based artificial insemination} companies that are widely known & used by Costarican dairy farmers Enrique told me.

Mr. Villalobos may go up to Wisconsin for the World Dairy Expo in 1978. I told him I’d like him to meet my dad if he does. If it weren’t for the language barrier I’m sure they’d find lots to talk about.

<At about 7:15 PM I arrived in front of Sofia’s house with half a sack of oranges and my small suitcase. Sofia wasn’t home, but her younger sister came out to help me carry my cargo in. Carlos {Reed} and Enrique fell in love with the sister.>

<Sofia has her first month’s supply of “the pill.”> She went to see her doctor yesterday, and he did a preliminary exam and then gave her the contraceptives to start taking on the first day of her period. She was excited about it & took them out to show me them, etc. I sure hope she doesn’t experience any serious side effects. I hate taking any medicine & am not too comfortable with the idea of her taking something with as many confirmed bad side-effects as the pill. It’s the best contraceptive for us to start out on I guess, but she says she’ll only use it for six months and then we’ll have to find an alternative. I’ll use condoms if necessary. I won’t pressure her to use a method she has a lot of doubts about.

And on & on. She has got a sound system lined up for the reception, but we aren’t sure about the hall, El Ande, yet. She is also lining up an organist and a singer for the wedding, which will cost about 400 Colones. I promised to pick up the rings and her shoes today, and talk with a guy who I hope can be talked into taking pictures at our wedding. She’s going to talk with the padre {priest} about music in the church and continue her physical.

7.02.2017

Journal, January 26, 1977 PM

I have seen so many milk trucks in the last two days that it’s making me homesick for Wisconsin. San Carlos really is dairy farming country. The town we are staying in, Ciudad Quesada, translates to Cheesy City, and it ought to be with all the milk produced nearby.

We got out into some lower land today, and thus pretty well out of dairy cattle country & into a beef cattle region. It was hot, and in La Fortuna, where Enrique had promised us it would be easy to get samples, we had to really scrape to get one. Oranges, however, were abundant, and 3 of us bought 200 at 7 Colones per hundred. It rained on them on our way back here. I hope that doesn’t ruin them.

People are the same everywhere. I always am a prime target for jokes because of my quietness and lack of assertiveness. Today I failed to conform by eating a big lunch. I wasn’t hungry due to the heat and all the jostling around in the jeep this morning, & because I had eaten a big breakfast & fruit all morning. When they started in speculating that I was on a diet or trying to save money for my wedding, I clammed completely up (as usual), so they were left to speculate at leisure.

I wonder if it’s really true that insecure people are more upset by nonconformity? It makes sense to me.

I’ve been very horny all day today, and because I was wearing cloth pants (until I showered just now), I would get out of the back of the jeep and be embarrassed to go meet a farmer (or better a farmer’s wife), because of the projection made by my hardened organ. My tactic was to carry the sample bag strategically located. One of life’s little hassles! At least now I can smile about such a problem instead of getting uptight as I used to.

Journal, January 25, 1977 PM

Since I’ve been back in Costa Rica, what I drank tonight is the most I’ve drunk. I weaseled out of a drink at lunch time in Pital, but tonight in Ciudad Quesada I drank with the boys, Renán {Molina}, Enrique Villalobos, Carlos {Reed} & the driver of our jeep land cruiser. I’m pretty drunk, but we talked as much as we drank. It was interesting. I discovered, among other things, that Renán & Enrique get bad vibes from the manner of Dr. Echandi, just as I do. Carlos doesn’t really commit himself.

The zone we went through today was very pleasant. I could see myself owning a farm in Zarcero or Venícia one day. The farmers are medium-sized and very likable. One guy reminded Carlos & me of farmers we know back home. Year-round pastures, a minimal investment in buildings and equipment, what a way to dairy farm! Costa Rica is hardly a developing country if what I’ve seen today is any indication. It has poor people & poor areas, but must be at least on a par with countries like Switzerland and France in Europe.

Journal, January 24, 1977 PM

<Monday evening meal at Sofia’s:> She’s an innovative cook, so it should be pleasant as usual. I brought her a dozen pink roses & was rewarded with the customary show of emotion. (Good old Julie Poh. She said flowers were the way to win over a woman.)

After dinner: It was pretty good, papaya & milk fresco {drink}, tuna dish, fried potatoes, cabbage & tomato salad with pieces of hard boiled egg in it, the standard rice & beans, and pieces of fresh papaya for dessert.

Yesterday we headed out to go bowling in San Pedro. <The guy (a shoeshine boy) on the bus seated next to Sofia had an epileptic fit and scared her about out of her skin.> She didn’t scream though, just changed seats. The poor guy slid down ‘til he was practically laying on the seat, had muscle spasms, and appeared as if his eyes would pop out of his head. Jaime {Olson} and I are well adapted to the culture. We did nothing. <Jaime & Sofia laughed about it later.> I couldn’t. Poor guy probably gets no medical attention.

The {bowling} alley was closed. We spent an interesting morning at the Museo Nacional {National Museum}. We ate at Pizza Hut for the second day in a row. <Sofia and I ate there Saturday, after a morning of shopping.>

<Oh, Saturday Sofia and I found our apartment.> It is in Santo Domingo and is in a word, neat. It is a tiny annex to an old fashioned adobe & wood house that Lolita Gonzalez has tried to maintain as authentically Costarican as possible, while not shunning modern appliances. Behind her home she has a collection of orchids and other plants filling a tiny garden. It’s a mind stimulating place, both house & garden.

Our apartment is furnished and has a tiny “sala {living room},” a tiny kitchen / dining area, a tiny bedroom, but with a closet in the wall, and a cozy bathroom. There is even a miniscule patio with plants between kitchen & bedroom. The only drawback is it has only a single {sized} bed. However, Lolita will let us put in our own bed if we like.

Journal, January 21, 1977 PM

Resolution: <I have to be more detached & rational around Sofia, at least for a while.> She’s very adaptable and tries to please me, so I have to take the initiative and show her that she doesn’t please me by being girlish and dependent on me. She’s been hitting me with: What am I going to do when you’re out of town? I can’t sleep alone in a house. And what am I going to do when you’re at work? I’ll be bored. Then when I talk about working and going to school in the States, she comes across with: I can’t stand to be alone at night! And if I don’t like it in the U.S. after a year, I’ll have to come home!

I’ve just been saying that’s the way it is, and you’ll adjust, but her sudden onslaught (like she’s trying to write in some special conditions before she signs the contract) has left me upset.

Wedding preparations are going on slowly. It seems that I’m mainly called upon to fork over cash, and ratify & praise decisions which have already been made. That’s pretty unavoidable I guess, given I’m both the groom and devoid of inside knowledge of how you go about arranging a Costarican wedding.

Today I am cooking beans to see how “duro {hard}” they are. What excitement! Yesterday though we went to the Instituto Interamericano de Ciencias Agricolas {Interamerican Agricultural Sciences Institute} in Turrialba. It’s a beautiful place. They have a good agricultural library, and I understand they’ve done some fine work in various phases of tropical agriculture. If I ever decide to farm here in Costa Rica, I should take an M.S. {Master of Science} there first, just to get to know the center, the people who are knowledgeable and the latest advances in tropical agricultural production.

Journal, January 19, 1977 PM

{some text not transcribed}

Work is dragging by today; we were doing diddly-squat.

I have an idea for a short political commentary article. George Jefferson & Phillip Vasquez, two lowly night employees, discuss capitalism and its role in human society. I’ll have to see where the idea takes me.

Journal, January 18, 1977 PM

This morning I read a good article on world agriculture (ag.) development in the September 1976 “Scientific American.” They say what informed people in the El Salvador ag. development sector were saying, that the third world countries must stress ag. development and development in the direction of maximum yields of grain crops per land unit and intensive use of labor. “Scientific American” was guardedly optimistic that properly directed ag. development can keep food supplies somewhere near demand. They didn’t use the term “redistribution of wealth,” but clearly recommended it, calling for increasing incomes of small farmers.

They cited the relatively short time that the experts have been aware of the “right” way to attack the food problem, and dramatically increased funding of ag. research applicable to third world conditions as reasons for optimism.

<Sofia was so very good & beautiful last evening that it left me half spaced out most of the time.> I found myself completely absorbed just watching her in action. What a very special lady! I hope I can please her as much as she does me.

She is very competent and clearly fully capable of doing just about anything she sets her mind to all by herself. Yet she tries so very hard to please me that I have trouble believing it. What euphoria!

What worries me now is that I’m in danger of being so happy in my private life that I will find no inspiration, no initiative, to be creative, be it in science, literature . . . It is said that discontented men have accomplished the great works of genius (Dante being an oft-cited example).

I sincerely hope that the inherently tragic nature of a human life will be sufficient to spur me (i.e. You can’t get out of it alive!). If I’m destined to be a lackey, I wish to be a very competent and well-informed one.

Journal, January 17, 1977 AM

<Just about all my time yesterday I spent at Sofia’s place.> I got bored. <Sofia’s sister and her boyfriend were spatting, so there was tension at times. The boyfriend often has to be indulged. Yesterday he got to Sofia’s house and sat in his car calling for Sofia’s sister to come out and go for a drink with him before he came in to eat lunch. And then Sofia’s sister will go finicky.> They certainly ought to get on each other’s nerves because they sure get on mine.

<Sofia is always gung-ho about going everywhere with her sister’s boyfriend (because he has the car, logically), but what a stereotypical drag it can be.>

7.01.2017

Letter, January 16, 1977

Mom, Dad & all,

I arrived in Costa Rica without a hitch and had a fair-sized reception committee waiting for me at the airport. <Everyone here is OK except Sofia’s Dad, who fell off a ladder and broke his leg.> He’s getting around pretty good on crutches though. He hobbled down to see the La Asunión soccer team play the other night.

Doña Carmen’s mother is still hanging on, though she is so bad they take turns staying up nights with her. I guess they fed her the asparagus. I haven’t seen it since I gave it to Doña Carmen. I don’t expect it’ll do much for cancer though.

<Sofia & I have decided to change the wedding from March 4th to Saturday, March 5th so that if you come down with that tour Jan is checking on, you’ll be here a day before the wedding & things won’t be so rushed. Sofia is anxious to meet you, Mom & Dad.> Pilar has given her a very positive impression of you.

Pilar & Jaime {Olson} are getting along fine. We had a beer with them last night. Pilar really enjoyed her stay in Wisconsin and seems to have lost her fear of the cold.

At the grain lab they are giving me an experiment of my own to run as a special project. My bosses were not disturbed about the crossed wires concerning the grain probes. They realized afterwards that Dr. Echandi had sent the letter to one company and called another. The probes that were sent by airfreight are already here & in immigration so we’ll have them soon. I’m glad we didn’t accept delivery of the second set!

My God it was hot yesterday! I was uncomfortable even sitting still. My body has undergone quite a change in temperature inside a week, but seems none the worse for wear.

I hope you’re getting lots of snow.

Take care,

Dean

Journal, January 16, 1977 AM (Sunday)

<Sofia & I were talking straight last night, after beer & conversation at El Jardín Cervecero {literally Beer Garden} with Pilar & Jaime {Olson}, 2 of Sophia’s sisters, and a boyfriend.> We both have high expectations for our relationship. We both want a great deal from life, and we’re both pleased to have found someone of similar mind. I hope & believe we will be better together than each on his or her own (as Franny Redman claims she & Bob are).

My head was spinning & my mind boggled when I left her. So often she says what I’m thinking or seems to confirm that what I say is what she’s been thinking, it’s freaky. We disagree on many things, but intellectually & spiritually we follow the same trail to an incredible extent.

Journal, January 15, 1977 PM

<Sofia & I struck out with apartment hunting today.> We only tried calling 2 places, so no big deal, but we checked out the paper & have some more possibilities to check on now. Apartments listed in the paper are so expensive. <I wish I had a better idea what food & other extras are going to cost us, because Sofia is very blasé about the whole thing.> We agreed that we should find a place for between 4 and 6 hundred Colones, and then she sees one for 875 Colones, with furniture, and thinks we should check it out. She’s never lived outside her parents’ home. She doesn’t realize how expensive it is to live.

I played soccer at work Friday, scoring 2 goals as we played a “no defense” game, just like the two other times I have played with the CIGRAS group. Dr. Mora is really pushing Carlos {Reed} & I into starting individual research projects. Mine concerns the “endurecimiento {hardening}” of beans. Mora is interested in finding out how temperature and humidity of storage, and time in storage affect the cooking time of beans. If a cheap method of storage is possible, that will also keep the beans “suaves {soft}”, it could mean a lot to the bean warehouses. Now they have to throw away beans that get too hard to cook.

Journal, January 14, 1977 AM

So far this morning I am the only person in the grain lab. The bosses are gone & I think Renán {Molina} has a class ‘til 9. Hard telling what happened to Carlos Reed, my PCV {Peace Corps volunteer} partner.

I’m feeling well rested this morning. <I used my self-discipline last night & got away from Sofia’s by about 9:15 by telling her I absolutely had to leave by 9.> {some text not transcribed}

Journal, January 12, 1977 AM

I’m here in Costa Rica & was back on the job yesterday. I’m still feeling half dazed by the changeover, but I’m also starting to get all worried & uptight over wedding preparations. I tend to live pretty uptight. “Socado {Tight} Dino” a friend in Atiocoyo {El Salvador} labeled me.

<Sofia is falling all over herself trying to please me with her affection, and the little things she does.> I find myself embarrassed by it. She behaves in such an unliberated manner that I feel like a real (though somewhat reluctant) male chauvinist pig.

Last evening she would not let me go off by myself and get my head together. I said I had to leave early to get some stuff organized at Doña Carmen’s (at the risk of offending her after a carefully & lovingly prepared meal). But, not to be denied, she insisted on going with me. She kept me from getting more done than the copying of a few names in my new address book. But I’m so glad she didn’t let me retreat into my thoughts on only my second night in town.

I gave her her gifts from Jan & from me, and was swamped with more affection in return. {some text not transcribed}

6.28.2017

Journal, January 10, 1977 AM

I am sitting on my Northwest jet, which has just begun its mechanical whine. I have had my last whiff of cold, fresh Wisconsin air for about a year. It felt entirely as refreshing as my first whiff December 10.

It has been an odyssey, this 30-day break in my foreign service. At times I have had to stop & carefully reassess my situation in order to reassure myself that what was going on around me was not only very real, but also logical & understandable given the people involved, the limits of their experience and perspectives, and so forth. Each of my family members, my friends or acquaintances is engrossed completely in a life which I have not been a part of for two years, and will not be a part of for another year. My visit was like being in a time warp. I was privileged to get a brief glimpse of changes in progress that will partially determine future events in the lives of my world of acquaintances.

I went to my cousin Rosemary Krejchik’s wedding on Saturday. It was a perfectly done, unpretentious, modern, religiously very proper Catholic wedding. She had a chorus with guitar accompaniment in the church, yet a simple, peasant-style wedding gown she made herself. She wore a crown of roses, and the brothers and sisters of the couple carried flowers to place in a basket on the altar. There were two priests on hand who took turns quoting scripture and calling for the ritual audience responses.

The Krejchik relatives come to weddings & funerals, and this was no exception. From Arkansas, Arizona, & of course Illinois & Wisconsin, they came to wish the last of Charles Krejchik’s children (and his only daughter) well on her wedding day.

The reception was a perfect lunch of excellent food, a little punch and lots of reminiscing among folks who hadn’t seen one another in 5, 10, 15 or more years. There was no alcohol and no need for any. The Krejchiks continue to be non-drinkers. I felt relaxed around them. They tend toward easygoing conservatism and impressive practical intelligence. Among them there is none of the tension and expectation of imminent personality clash you find in any gathering of the Jeffersons.

Rosemary’s husband (sister Donna reports) is a Californian who is a grad. student at U.W.-Madison {University of Wisconsin} and a math whiz who will soon go to Europe to show some folks a theory he’s developed. He doesn’t look his age. I felt a funny clairvoyant surge as he (name: James Wilson) and Rosemary stood before the altar. I interpreted it as a premonition that Rosemary would perhaps have some strong future influence in my life. After learning from Donna about James, I think perhaps I will come into contact with him in my academic future. I usually place no faith in such “rushes,” but now it is recorded in case anything comes of it.

I saw Bruce play basketball yesterday with his men’s league team. He is a player who has developed his limited abilities very well using his intelligence. (Bruce is extremely sharp. I am convinced he could be a 3.5 GPA student if he devoted his mind to that end.) Bruce hustles and plays intelligent ball; he is unselfish, yet a decent shooter. His team won handily. I hope he learns to do other things as systematically as he plays & manages his team. Like Mom & Dad, he tends to have “too many logs in the fire” consistently.

The skies are clearer now, you can make out features on the ground easily, and there is no snow. I hope we don’t get to Miami too late for me to make my connection. Atlanta GA is on our left, says the pilot, but I see only green country on the right.

Tonight (assuming the best!) I will drop into a whole other world of folks with expectations & obligations directed at me. <I hope Sofia has taken my absence well.> I received no word from her after my birthday card, & at that time she had received no word from me & was nerved up about my neglecting or even forgetting her. When will she learn to trust me?

I bought the canned asparagus for Doña Carmen’s mother in a market in Portage {WI} enroute to the wedding. I will be surprised if she is ever again well enough to enjoy it. Still it was an obligation.

<I have cheese & sausage to please the natives, & two big chocolate bars, plus special chocolates for Sofia.> If I make it through customs intact, it will be a pleasant “homecoming.”

I bought a shortwave radio / cassette recorder combination in Madison. <It will be entertainment for Sofia & I when we are on our own, and I expect I’ll be able to resell it when I leave Costa Rica.> I have a Carly Simon tape & a blank. I will try to buy some good material in Spanish to take back north with me.

We are passing over Plains, Georgia, home of U.S. President Jimmy Carter, & a brand new tourist attraction!

<I still feel basically right about my decision to marry Sofia.> It will be a tough first few years both financially & in terms of social adjustment, but she values honesty & fidelity as I do, & I think she’ll amaze everyone with her adaptability to new situations. My task will be always to point out the beautiful & interesting things, and keep her from getting uptight by giving her my faith & love.

Journal, January 6, 1977 PM

Oh, today I am in Madison {WI} visiting Jan and taking care of business. I drove down here yesterday via Edgerton and Stoughton, carrying my expired driver’s license. I dropped Donna off in her little small town world and hospital, a Peyton Place. Then I stopped in to see sister Mary, return some baby stuff of hers & say goodbye.

I went to the daycare center where Jan works, & made a hit with the kids. They warmed to me immediately. It was fun for a half-day or so, but the attention-demanding little darlings would wreck my nerves in less than a week. Jan even talks about switching jobs.

I went up State Street to try to get some of my errands run, and bought a radio / tape recorder as I had thought of doing. I also made the first contact to try to get Mom & Dad into a Costa Rica tour that begins on the day of my wedding. I hope it works out.

Last evening there was a 3-hour NBC special on violence in America. As its example of rural crime, it featured my hometown & county. There have been a series of homicides there under unusual circumstances. They ignored the factor of a new federal prison in the county, dwelled upon the freak murder of an 18-yearold local girl by her flipped out boyfriend (reportedly, he is the incredibly spoiled son of the local banker), and concluded with the idea that local folks live in constant fear & tension. Jan described the grieving mother of the dead girl as a bleached blond aggressive gossip, who pushed her child to be the sex symbol she fantasized being. In today’s Capital Times {a Madison newspaper} the girl’s father got his lick in saying Friendship was the most vicious small town he had ever seen.

Funny, in 3 weeks I completely missed out on the paranoia! Perhaps a man is blindest to his own environment, but I didn’t see any good representatives of the old guard, solid citizens in the footage. NBC seemed to be talking to the types who told them what they wanted to hear. They came into Friendship with a thesis, & cut & narrated their film to support it.

Journal, January 6, 1977 AM

Yesterday I passed the quarter of a century mark, reaching 25 years of age. Today I feel old. Twenty-five years I’ve lived and done nothing to distinguish myself. I feel like a young man with “a great future in his past.” This phrase was given me by a former Rhodes Scholarship winner who was a U.W. {University of Wisconsin-Madison} administrative officer & on the Wisconsin Rhodes Scholarship selection committee when I competed for a scholarship. He said that was the classic description of a Rhodes Scholar, a man with a great future in his past. Everyone thought I had great potential when I was in high school & college. I still believe that I do.

Yesterday, moneymaking schemes were humming in my brain. Life would be so much less tension inspiring if I had some real money to play around with, like $10,000+. I still keep coming back to the imperative of writing newspaper articles or something for a magazine, and trying to sell it. The idea is lodged in my brain. Now if only I could raise myself to the action level. I’ll just have to hope for a prize in the Publishers’ Clearinghouse sweepstakes. I received an entry form & gambled the stamp to send it back. Everyone is looking for a free lunch, right?

6.25.2017

Images, January 1977

{ View of the central valley from a hilltop in La Asunción de Belén, Heredia, Costa Rica. }

6.23.2017

Journal, December 31, 1976 PM

<I wonder what Sofia is doing?> I feel a certain emptiness not being with her. I have no one I can really hold on to.

It just became 1977 in New York; Dick Clark gave the countdown in Times Square. What lonely people they must be, those that stand out in the cold in Times Square to welcome in another year. Of course they’d be drunk . . .

I remember some years ago when I watched “For Whom the Bell Tolls” on New Year’s {Eve}. I was the only one at home & they showed the movie without commercials. They just interrupted it at 12 to announce the new year. I had read the book, I loved Hemingway’s novels, and was completely engrossed in the movie.

<I remember last year with Sofia in my arms. We snuck off behind a pine tree to embrace and her older sister found us. We took lots of pictures and drank very little. Skip Baker said Sofia was “foxy.”> It was a great party at Ed Stoll’s.

I’m glad I didn’t go out this year. It would have been forced & hollow to get bombed. I think I’ll have a beer on top of my two brandy & 7-Ups, and listen to some more bubble gum music!

Journal, December 27, 1976 AM

Now that “Happy Days” is over I will attempt to write a few sentences. My time is not my own here, especially now that more of the family is here for the holidays. From the time I get up to go to the barn in the morning, until I go to bed, I figure in other people’s plans to the extent that I feel I have lost control of me. I must discipline myself better if I hope to get things done which I have set for myself as goals while home. I’ve already developed a singular dread of going to the Congregational Church to talk with a pastor I don’t know.

We went to Neenah {WI}, to Jaime’s parents’ farm. It couldn’t have gone much better or much more predictably. Mom & Dad found the Olsons extra-especially good folks, as I knew they would. Dad talked farming at his customary rapid rate, leaving poor Mr. Olson just a bit dazed I suspect. Mrs. Olson keeps a fine house, is a fine traditional wife, like I expect Pilar will be. My folks liked Pilar & were impressed with the way she is standing the cold & learning English.

Bruce is sitting on the other end of the couch, checking out “The Odessa File,” and Tom is at my elbow in the lounge chair starting on “Walden.” Marcia brought a pile of books up with her from Nashville, including the {Lord of the Rings} trilogy by J.R.R. Tolkien. She arrived last night. We are a family of readers & investigators! Even Donna, who I used to think of as the least analytic, was impressing me yesterday with her powers of reasoning. We were driving back from Madison in the pickup after taking Jan some wood we’d chopped. She’s sharp in the business sense of that term. She can spot a fast-talking salesman or a charmer, & she has her own immediate future plans so well laid out as to put old “methodical Dean” to shame. She has the man she wants to marry, has known him for 5 years, and is satisfied with him. She plans to take driving lessons, get her license, & get a car this spring.

Donna’s very open, which makes her pleasant to be around, but her personality is still fragile. You have to be supportive, which I’m usually talented at, though being on her own has done absolute honest-to-gosh WONDERS.

Mary is the most disappointing to me, I guess. She’ll never learn to appreciate her youngest siblings as people / equals! Even Marcia claims she is treated like a child by her. Mary & David came with kids, stock & barrel on Christmas Eve & spent the night. The tension was so thick in this house at times it resembled the fog of Ken Kesey’s novel, “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.” However, not even Jan blew up when Mary said, “I thought I looked bad!” in response to Jan’s modeling of her new army pants, and it passed. Everyone but Dad thinks Mary & David should start their own Christmas at {their} home. They both do make overt (& unfunny) verbal jabs at the rest of us kids. It was painfully obvious this Christmas, but damned if it makes any sense.

Merna came for a night & a morning, and was OK, but what do you say to a smart, slick, good-lookin’, fine-dressin’ businesswoman in a sports car? The rest of us have so little in common with her & boyfriend Greg Friday. Warren Barnes, a local boy now living in Florida (former boyfriend of Marcia), is their friend, and provides the closest link to us. He is very down-home friendly.

I feel like one of the clan at home now, you will note. I even use “us.”

Journal, December 21, 1976 PM

I’m such a sentimentalist. I swear it’s involuntary or if socially learned it has penetrated deep! I’ll be listening to music & the combination of emotion-stimulating instrumental and direct-to-the-soul vocal will cause tears to well up in my eyes and my breathing rhythm to be broken. “When You’re a Free man Again” by Moody Blues did it to me, and an old Jim Croce tune . . .

I’m at home semi-vegetating today. Some folks claim they need pot to be able to do this. It only fogs up my mind or makes me yawn or puts me to sleep.

I read a bit about Lorenz, the physicist turned behaviorist, who was so controversial when I left the U.S. I think he got entirely too much attention. He’s looking for an ultimate solution to a perpetual problem, asocial people in society. How are we going to select out or otherwise “weed out” genetic defectives when we don’t know yet to what extent social behavior is dependent upon genetic factors as opposed to socialization factors? His work on goose imprinting was useful. His interpolations into human interrelationships are unsubstantiated speculation. He never says who will decide who is genetically defective, and seems to ignore the inherent political nature of such a decision. Enough!

I called up Jaime Olson in Neenah {WI} yesterday. He & Pilar made the trip in fine shape & will expect our visit tomorrow. I hope Mom & Dad don’t pull out at the last minute. They have been luke warm about the idea of going up there from the start.

6.20.2017

Journal, December 20, 1976 AM

I’ve been delinquent again. Partly, my not writing more often is due to all the demands on my time here. I’m depended upon to do my share of the chores (like loading feed this morning), and I try to go to things, like the basketball game last Friday. However, I also recognize that I am slipping (all too comfortably) into my old “at home” attitude. Do the chores, B.S. with the family & plop yourself down in front of the T.V. to be entertained. Old habits come back easily, especially the bad ones!

Yesterday we (Mom, Dad & I) went to visit my sister Mary & her husband in Stoughton {WI}. We stopped by Jan’s in Madison to dump some stuff & arrived just in time for the football game. David is an avid fan, so our whole visit was centered around the big RCA color T.V. The two toughest teams, Pittsburg & Baltimore, were playing in a preliminary to the “Super Bowl.” It was the best offense in the NFL against the best defense, the irresistible force meets the immovable object, etc., etc. So it was a must game for all real fans. We ate our ham, giant lima beans, jello, mashed potatoes and pumpkin pie on tray tables while watching Pittsburg maul, stomp and otherwise brutalize outclassed Baltimore. Brian Olsen (1½ years) provided the most excitement as he sashayed around the room, causing much minor havoc & loads of laughs, in open defiance of the epic struggle on the screen.

Note: I am down on American football since a game I saw Saturday between New England and Oakland. New England dominated the game on the line of scrimmage all day, and was winning with about 4 minutes to go. They had the ball & were moving it. Then the referees missed the most blatant pass interference I have ever seen on a fourth down play, & Oakland got the ball. Later, with Oakland in a 3rd or 4th and 18 situation the refs called roughing the passer on New England when the defender was in the air jumping at the quarterback when he released the ball. He may have tipped it. Still Oakland couldn’t seem to score on their own. It took another penalty, which gave them the ball on the New England one. They scored on second down.

After all that I was more than half convinced that what was involved was not just referee incompetence. The fact is that betting on U.S. professional football is big, big business, and it is common knowledge that the Oakland vs. New England game was the bookmakers’ and betting houses’ sure thing. All the “experts” (old fuddy duddies who are so conservative it sometimes makes them blind) picked ‘perennial playoff team’ Oakland over the ‘Cinderella team’ New England by at least a touchdown. Perhaps I have been in El Salvador too long, but given that those betting places would lose a bundle in the event that New England won, it is not implausible that they would buy the referees for “insurance.” I can’t get the idea out of my head, & it disgusts me the more because I still have a passion for the first sport I took an interest in, American football!

Sister Mary said I was being very quiet & asked me about El . . . Rica. Everyone {here} confuses the countries, & no one can remember which one I spent 2 years in. I think I made a disclaimer and a few trivial remarks, and she was satisfied. David’s sows are having small litters & dead pigs, & they have a virus in the hogs. Their corn only yielded 42 bushels per acre. His mother broke her hand when she fell on their steps while bringing groceries to Mary. And so it goes.

We got a phone call in the fourth quarter. An old man, who has taken over as Donna’s surrogate father, called to say she was in the hospital. Donna had gotten hit by a driver who hadn’t seen her crossing the street. We went to see her. She’s all bruised up, but is in the same hospital where she works as a dietician, so she’s having no hassles. She has her little world of the hospital & small town all figured out. She has people who look out for her, like Vic, the old man. She has a boyfriend. She’s pretty content, & I’ll leave it at that.

Journal, December 16, 1976 AM

I was in Madison {WI} yesterday and got myself a new toy. I had intended to buy an electronic calculator while I was home, & the family got wind of it & decided to buy it for me. I picked out a Texas Instruments SR-40, and Jan wrote a check for it. I was in Madison to take Jan back, & we had hoped to go visit Mary also, but she wasn’t home.

The calculator is just what I wanted. It cost $42, but does sine and inverse sine functions, all roots & powers, logs & antilogs, etc. To get a more sophisticated one you have to pay about twice what I did (what the folks did!).

I’m being put to work here at the farm. My labor is being duly exploited, but I’m enjoying it for now. Yesterday morning I helped with the milking, helped load corn for Dad to grind feed, went with Jan to cut wood (I ran the chain saw, she carried wood.), and helped Dad unload the feed & clean the manure out of the barn. We use a mechanical barn cleaner. In the afternoon I took Jan back to Madison, & got back in time to take Dad’s place for the evening milking. He and Mom had a banquet to go to in Wisconsin Rapids. Who ever said life was slow paced down on the farm, has not been “down on the farm” lately. I’m newly amazed at how hard my parents work daily.

Mary Ann Carr, the former member of Peace Corps’ Costa Rica nursing program & friend of Diego Cox, sent me a Christmas card with a picture from the party we had at Charlie Mayer’s house in San Salvador. She’s so sweet.

Journal, December 13, 1976 AM

My days have been very full since I arrived in Madison {WI} Friday night. I have done nothing special, except get back together with the family and adjust myself to their pace. They are very energetic, active folks, every one. I had half forgotten.

I was the last standby passenger to get on the last flight out of Chicago on Friday. <I’m not yet ready to credit it to Sofia’s cross, but it was very fortunate.> Jan met me at the airport in a borrowed car. It turned out very fortunate that Mom & Dad did not come down to meet me. They’d have been waiting impatiently 3½ hours, or perhaps given up on me & gone home.

Jan took me to her place & we drank hot chocolate & talked with her roommate, smoked a joint and went to bed. In the morning we went down to the campus (of University of Wisconsin) and meandered about. I bought a Spanish-English dictionary at the bookstore and checked out electric calculator prices. There was one for $39 that has about what I want. I think it will be a good investment as I should be able to sell it when I leave Costa Rica at a small profit.

We went into a head shop so Jan could buy (Continued at 2:30 PM, after Dad got tired of discussing with me & went to sleep.) cigarette papers and I was confronted by something the U.S. has which Costa Rica and other Central American countries definitely don’t, a store totally and openly dedicated to selling all of the accessories needed (or that one might desire) to smoke marijuana and hashish. I picked up my lower jaw quickly so as not to be too conspicuous.

In Rennebolm’s {pharmacy} Jan & I had a hot chocolate, and were discussing Costa Rica & the business of learning a second language, when the woman sitting next to me put in that her husband was Mexican and told us about some of the problems he’d had trying to learn English. Jan says Milwaukee and Madison are becoming important centers for the Chicano movement, and that they have acquired significant Hispanic American populations.

Anyway, I saw Bruce about 1:30 when he showed up to take us home. Still, I was lost in thoughts of the past that kept swimming through my head. Everything I saw brought back an association from 2+ years back. My perceptive powers molded what was there to fit my memories surely, but also nothing radically unlike my past experience broke the mood. Bruce didn’t break it. The fact that he was driving a car I’d never seen before, the folks’ “new” Comet, didn’t alter it. Landmarks along the route from Madison to Friendship were largely unchanged. The house looked the same.

My first big jolt was lying on the couch in the living room as I strolled in. I had already greeted Carla. She was bigger, and showed physical signs of blossoming womanhood, but the voice & manner were unaltered. Anyway, as I walked into the living room, I noticed a young man lying on the couch. He saw me as well, and got up nimbly and came rapidly toward me, extending his hand and saying, “Dean, how you doing boy?” I was momentarily stunned. I took his hand and replied, “Good to see you, Tom.” But actually, I half expected to be told he was a neighbor or friend or . . . As I expressed those thoughts, everyone smiled & nodded knowingly. Yes, Tom had grown a lot, and his voice had changed. He had filled out some. I must have sounded like a broken record the rest of the day, talking about the new Tom. I still find myself kind of looking sideways at him and cautiously studying his movements, seemingly to reassure myself that I am dealing with one person in two time frames instead of separate people! Also, he is the most interesting family member to study in terms of personal development. I’ve always had high expectations for him, & it appears everyone else in the family does also.

Saturday night Bruce and I tipped a few beers at his favorite place. Bruce has become the responsible big brother of the family, smoothly and completely. He told me he could never bear to see the farm go out of the family’s hands, and that he expected that if something sudden happened to Dad, or if no one else took it over, that he would take over the farm. He’s matured almost more than I would have wished. But clearly my cutting myself off so completely from the folks & farm was the crucial factor in it. I’m both feeling a little guilty that I dumped on him the responsibility I had borne, and feeling very proud and satisfied with the way he has borne that responsibility. He’s even recognized that Jan has a major problem because she can’t sustain satisfying relationships with men. The younger kids are beginning to analyze and propose solutions for the problems of their elder brethren. It’s good; it’s very healthy. I must strive to avoid playing the overbearing older brother.

My parents also please me. Dad tends to dominate conversations as much as ever, but the breadth and depth of the things he is thinking about are impressive: tax laws, local& international politics, the importance of choosing a good woman, birth control, education, transferring the farm to the next generation. The farm remains firm as Gibraltar in the center of Dad’s universe. It was “the living” for his parents, his family, he & his wife, and for our family. We must keep it in the family. This is not a threat or an order directed at me, but a statement of unalterable belief & faith, even a kind of pleading, as he’s well aware that we the children will decide the fate of this piece of the Earth in which he has invested so much of his once boundless energy. Now at 55 he would like to be already started on transferring it to his heir. I sense that I’m still his choice, & that Tom ranks above Bruce. Bruce however is my bet to do it. He’s already told me he’s found the woman, & she’s "a lot like Mom."

Mother never says much, but she exudes moral & mental power. Dad admits she has always been the support & counsel he needed to do what they have. But he told me today, “She will never make a business decision, she always has left that to me. I have decided everything.”

6.14.2017

Journal, December 10, 1976 PM

I’m in Chicago. If I’m not pretty lucky I may be in Chicago until tomorrow. My flight out of Guatemala today was held up an hour and a quarter while the Guatemalan Air Force demonstrated their proficiency by dropping smoke bombs on the runway! That’ll show those British!

As a result I missed my connecting flights to Chicago & Madison. I got another flight here, but there is only one more flight to Madison tonight (North Central {airline} - 10 PM), and they don’t know if they have space. I’m on standby. I hope to heck my folks didn’t come all the way down from Friendship {WI} to meet me. I was supposed to be there at 7:35 and when I wasn’t on the flight, they surely were worried as all get out. My present plan is that if I get to Madison late and no one is there, I’ll take a cab to DTS {fraternity} and spend the night there. I don’t know Jan’s or Merna’s phone numbers to call them.

<Sofia didn’t cry this morning.> She played it just right. You’re going, but you’re coming back. <A sister and nephew also saw me off.>

I had interesting conversations on each flight:

San Jose to Guatemala City - I sat next to a guy from Riverside, California who is working with the national planning office in Costa Rica. He’s a technocrat economist, but a guy concerned about people, a very intelligent guy. We traded impressions of Central America.

Guatemala City to Miami - (There were 2) (1) A friendly, conventional Guatemalan school teacher who said I looked like her son, & paid my Spanish the complement of asking if I was Guatemalan. (2) A Borden Company executive who works out of New York, travels extensively to Europe & Latin America, lived 10 years in Venezuela and is from Minnesota. In a word, he was fascinating to talk to. Among other tidbits he said the Minister of Agriculture of El Salvador is a great guy, knows nothing about agriculture, but is a great guy. He talked some about the things corporations do routinely to get contracts in Latin America. Wining and dining the military is standard procedure in countries like El Salvador. He’s a pragmatist & a cynic. He doesn’t like it all, but it’s business. We discussed the world milk market, & the relative utility of education & land reform as methods of spreading the benefit of development. He’s for education & against land reform. He makes a strong case. Apparently even petty airline employees will help you for a price in Central America, according to one remark he made. I freely admit that I don’t know how to react to basically good, right-minded, intelligent, but (a la vez {at the same time}) cynically pragmatic people like him. I find the same cold, calculating sentiment in me. I do sense that it’s dangerous & must be carefully controlled if one wants to be a moral human being.

Miami to Chicago - A lab equipment salesman for southern Michigan & northern Indiana, who was very friendly & decent. He was coming back from a company short course & all fired up about it. He was in the army in Germany & could sympathize with many of my Peace Corps experiences. His friend, a Chicago native, helped me find the baggage claim area. Nice guys, but very much content to be company men & put any excess energy into their private lives.

You meet interesting people traveling, & there is a certain sense of comradeship. Today I was fortunate in that respect.

Journal, December 9, 1976 PM

{some text not transcribed} We had a great trip to Turrialba yesterday. It’s a 2-hour ride in bus one way, but the journey is picturesque, with dairy farms, some forest, mountain streams & {sugar} cane & banana plantations. <Two of Sofia’s sisters and a nephew went along and made it quite a family affair.> It was like my family, all women!

The “balneario” (Las Americas) in Turrialba was just a good-sized pool with swings & other apparatus around it, plus a big dance salon. Still, it wasn’t crowded & the water was agreeable. <The nephew provided entertainment for all.> First, he wouldn’t go near the water, but with much coaching & coaxing he was persuaded to enter the kiddy pool. Then of course when we were ready to leave, he wanted to stay, & I had to carry him out of the pool.

{some text not transcribed}

<Sofia says I have 4,500 Colones invested in her. She announced that over beer at “El Ranchito” in Santo Domingo de Heredia (One sister & a boyfriend invited us.).> She’s as bad as Jaime {Olson} as a price dropper, & it upsets me a bit. I’m not trying to buy a wife!

Journal, December 7, 1976 PM

<I ran into Sofia and her older sister on the 5:10 bus from San Jose.> They had been buying material for the wedding dress & were pretty bushed. <The dress is coming out expensive, but It’ll be what Sofia wants and surely become a family heirloom.> I just hope I can come up with enough money to do the wedding like I want to. Well, there’ll never be enough money, can’t be, but hopefully we’ll pull the thing off and make a good party of it.

I’ve been writing Christmas cards, que pereza {what a drag}! I have to get the ones for El Salvador done to send Thursday. The U.S. ones I’ll send from home.

<Sofia, her sister & I are going to Turrialba tomorrow, to a swimming place there.> I hope it doesn’t cost much. I gave her nearly all of my money for the dress, and I’m down to less than 70 Colones.

Doña Carmen’s mother will undergo an operation at 9 AM Friday. Whatever the outcome, I’m glad I won’t be here for the immediate aftermath. Doña Carmen has the ability to upset everyone around her when she is upset.

My rat poison claimed its first visible victim. Doña Carmen found a large dead rat under my bed today. One for the good side!

Journal, December 7, 1976 Noon

<Sofia took her first look at my journal this morning.> She read a bit from the first part of this volume & more than anything else was disappointed to not find herself mentioned. Meanwhile, I was wondering what I would do if she stumbled upon last Sunday’s entry. She didn’t, but she was looking at the diary as we sat in front of the priest’s home waiting for him to open up for office hours, and I was in the middle of explaining to her an entry discussing the principal character’s befriending of a prostitute in {the movie} “Taxi Driver” when the office door opened and the priest walked out. <We never resumed our discussion of the diary, except that Sofia said she was going to translate it into Spanish & publish it!>

The priest is a very polite & proper fellow, but I was hoping for more depth of character. He asks nothing of us except the proper papers to make his task routine. He showed me Jaime’s letter from his church and said something like that would be fine. I couldn’t bring myself to begin a philosophical discussion of why I didn’t consider myself associated with any church or desire to be so affiliated. It seemed we were discussing a purely administrative matter. He would have to request a dispensation from the bishop, which takes 15 days, and we would need witnesses and certification of birth & being single, etc., etc. I guess I’ll see if I can get some sort of paper from my childhood church. I don’t think I was ever baptized, though I held a near perfect attendance record in Sunday School for 11 years.

Work goes on. We went to the university experimental farm this morning, & we are measuring percentage of broken kernels in rice samples. I got all of my documents & my ticket for the flight {home} at Peace Corps Office this morning. Looks like nothing can hold me back now. <Sofia goes completely silent whenever I mention the trip home.> She doesn’t like it much, but seems to have made up her mind to accept it & leave it at that.

Journal, December 6, 1976 PM

{some text not transcribed}

Anyway, it was a mellow day at the “balneario {swimming place}” of the “Country Club” in Alajuela, and I got time to write a couple letters, & make my list for Christmas cards between swimming trip & evening mass. We had no luck talking with the “Padre {Priest}.” He was in La Rivera for a special “fiesta patronal {patron saint festival}” mass, and another guy substituted. Now D-day is tomorrow. <At 07:35 AM Sofia & I will meet in front of the Padre’s {Priest’s} home to see what can be accomplished.> Both of us are about as eager to talk to him as a young child is to visit the dentist, but it is important we do it before I leave.

<No beer last night, Sofia has a big exam tonight, and I haven’t let her study much.> So I get today off to run my errands, etc. However, Doña Carmen has already buttonholed me to help son Orlando with his math. Obligations, obligations!

My boss at CIGRAS may have me order him some lab equipment while I’m in the U.S. If all I have to do is make a phone call when I pass through Chicago it’ll be no hassle, but little favors can grow.